Modify a SNES (or similar) controller to work on GameCube using an Arduino. The goal was to make a cheap alternative to the expensive Hori Gameboy controller using easily available parts.
Based on the Smash Box code by SimpleControllers: https://github.com/SimpleControllers/SimpleControllersBuild-a-Box Requires the Nintendo library by NicoHood: https://github.com/NicoHood/Nintendo
- Switch between D-pad and analog mapping
- Three different button layouts
- Can save current settings to be automatically re-enabled on power on
Press and hold Select, L and R together with the button of choice for about one second to set the current mode. D-pad assignment and button layouts can be set individually.
(Save combo must be held for 2-3 second).
The regular button layout matches the buttons on the SNES controller. The alternate button layout tries to mimic the layout of a GameCube controller. A new Game Boy Advance layout was added in v2.4 (hold X - not shown in gif).
| Controller buttons | Regular layout | Alternate layout | Game Boy Advance |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | A | X | A |
| B | B | A | B |
| X | X | Y | B |
| Y | Y | B | B |
- A controller to sacrifice
- A compatible Arduino board @16MHz, I use an Arduino Pro Mini (must be powered by 3.3V!)
- GameCube controller extension cord (wire colors might be different from mine, check continuity yourself)
- 10k resistor to pull up the data line
To my knowledge no 3.3V 16Mhz Arduino board exist, but the ATmega328p on a 5V 16Mhz Arduino Pro Mini can run at 3.3V. Though it is not advised to do so, I personally haven't had any issues, but please keep this in mind. Additional information can be found in the microcontroller datasheet: http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/Atmel-7810-Automotive-Microcontrollers-ATmega328P_Datasheet.pdf
- Flash the code to the Arduino. An external programmer like the USBtinyISP works great.
- Remove all components on the controller PCB and solder the button outputs of the Arduino to the controller PCB. Don't forget to connect GND.
- Wire up 3.3V, GND and Data from the extension cord. DO NOT USE 5V!
- Connect the 10k resistor between 3.3V and the data line.
Arduino Pro Mini pinout:
| Arduino pin | Function/physical button |
|---|---|
| VCC | 3.3V |
| GND | GND |
| 17 | Data |
| 3 | X |
| 4 | A |
| 5 | B |
| 6 | Y |
| 7 | Start |
| 8 | Select (Z) |
| 0 | L |
| 2 | R |
| 1 | Up |
| 9 | Right |
| 10 | Left |
| 14 | Down |
The Pro Mini fits nicely in this spot:
You can wire to the pads where the old chip used to be for a neater result:
The code runs quite slow on the Pro Mini. Not sure where the bottleneck is, but that explains why I don't know the exact time you must hold the button combos. This hasn't posed any issues at all when playing, but it should be still be mentioned.
The Qoob Pro BIOS absolutely hates this controller. It either doesn't work right or it will just refuse to boot. This is unfortunate but once you're past that I've experienced no issues.
On first use or after updating to a newer version, you will need to define either D-pad or analog and a button layout and save the config (see gif).