Right Enclosure Assembly Instructions
This page contains a description of the assembly process for the internals of the right enclosure of LoCO. Note that there may be slight differences in your build compared to these pictures, depending on your fabrication of certain parts, and the progress of the LoCO project over time. When figuring out what size screw to use for everything, please consult Screw/Bolt Listing, although for many of these parts, you can make modifications if you wish.
CLICK ON THE PICTURES TO SEE A FULL-SIZE VERSION
You can check out this Assembly Video to watch this being done.
The first step is to mount the 3D printed plug holder to the MDF. Place nuts for penetrators in the appropriate places (consider epoxying them in for stability), and screw the part to the MDF. Test fit with an end cap before epoxying anything.
Now, you need to mount the batteries. Start by mounting the battery holders, with the appropriate nuts/bolts. Check the Screw/Bolt Listing to find the appropriate ones. Once you've mounted the 3D printed parts, put in two batteries, to check that they fit, then remove them while you complete the rest of the assembly.
Now, mount the PDB to the MDF base with the appropriate screws. You need to solder everything to your PDB before mounting, but you'll also need to layout your parts on the board to decide on cable lengths. Or, you could solder connectors (like XT60s) to the PDB, and then use terminated cables on each end. Please be careful not to overtighten, and make sure that all the required leads are soldered on first.
First, attach the TX2 to the mounting part (you must do this first because of the screw orientations), then attach the mounting part to the MDF. Make sure to attach the Jetson power cable first, because it's impossible to attach while the TX2 is mounted to the MDF.
Depending on the camera you're using, this may differ, but in general, attach the camera to the mounting part, then attach the mounting part to the MDF. For the BlueRobotics Low-Light Cameras, there are three mounting holes.
Screw the OLED into the OLED mount, then screw the OLED mount into the MDF. For our currently LoCO, the microcontroller which runs the OLED is simply dangling by its (very stiff) cables off the OLED, but if your don't want to do that, consider screwing the Trinket to the board (potentially with some electrical tape or rubber protecting it).
The end cap is attached to the 3D printed part with two penetrator nuts pressure fit/glued into the 3D printed part. So once you've got the 3D printed parts attached to the MDF and the penetrator nuts in the 3D printed part, you can attach the end cap to the end cap holder with two penetrators, using a penetrator wrench. This may be difficult, as the threads on penetrators sometimes are difficult to line up. Make sure you've already got all of the cables attached to the end cap before you do this step, attaching them afterward is frustrating at best.
Now, you need to connect everything. This includes connecting the Jetson to the PDB, the power switch signal cables, the ESC signal cables, and the between-enclosure network harness.
For this ESC, use the only remaining thruster, the center(pitch) thruster.
Connect your ESC signal cables to the same IECC cable you have connected to Pixhawk main out 3 (in our case, an orange and orange-white pair on an IECC).
Connect your PDB power switch cables to the same IECC cable you have connected to the power switch on the left enclosure, in our case a brown and brown-white pair.
Connect the TX2 harness to the same IECC you connected the RPI to, as below.
At this point, you've got a finished internal sub-assembly for the right enclosure. If your left enclosure is also finished, you're just about ready to finalize the assembly process.