My notes, tips, and setup for 3d printing
- Printer: Artillery Genius
- Current mods/software in use
- Leveling process
- Replacement parts
- Printing with PETG
- Misc tips
- Useful links
- Calibration flowchart
- Filament flowchart
Table of contents generated with markdown-toc
- build size 220*220*250 mm
- direct drive
- bed max temperature 130C
- hot end
- 24V, kraken heatbreak, e3d volcano nozzle & block, nt100 thermistor
- Raspberry Pi 3 Model B Rev 1.2
- 3DTouch leveling sensor
- mellow/trianglelab nozzle
- full-metal heatbreak
- Bigtreetech TMC2209 v1.2 stepper drivers, in uart mode
- Energetic flexible spring steel & PEI sheet
- ADXL345 accelerometer, (https://www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_Resonances.html)
- At some point, maybe:
- Improvements for Z-banding: miagi, cobra
- Aluminium bed
- fan shroud, (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3972011)
- mount and calibration disk, (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3716043)
- cable protector, (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4295171)
- cable ribbon clamp, (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4281143)
- filament dust filter, (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:190118)
- side bed cable mod, (https://www.printables.com/model/54320-artillery-sidewinder-x1-genius-illuminated-bed-cab)
- old ones:
- bed cable strain relief, (https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/55642-genius-zx-adjustable-bed-cable-strain-relief)
- Klipper
- pressure advance, input shaping, auto bed leveling
- Clank's config used as the base
- both Mainsail and Fluidd installed
- SuperSlicer
- heat up the bed and wait for a few minutes
PROBE_CALIBRATE- take A5 sized copy paper
- close the gap between the nozzle:
TESTZ Z=-.1with smaller and smaller increments - leveling is done when you can still move the paper by pulling, but it curls up when pushed
ACCEPTandSAVE_CONFIGto save the values- links:
- nozzle: volcano
- aliexpress: trianglelabs or mellow
- heat block: volcano
- heatbreak
- if the cooler plate has two holes: smooth heatbreak, "kraken" style
- spread gluestick to bed, dilute with water if needed
- increase the gap between nozzle and bed a bit
- bed temperature: first layer 80C, others 70C (ie 10C warmer than with PLA)
- nozzle temperature >230C
- decrease part cooling
- Tape out the 5V line from Pi to mainboard
- Detach the 2-wired reset connector between TFT and mainboard: when flashing (Marlin) firmware, keep the reset button pressed to keep the TFT off
- After changing nozzle/hotend
- Heat up to 230C, loosen nozzle, tighten heat block, tighten nozzle
- PROBE_CALIBRATE, TESTZ Z=-1 etc, ACCEPT, SAVE_CONFIG
- PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=200, if needed, with fan on
- heat up the bed and G29
Flowchart was done using Mermaid.
My procedure for tuning new filament
