references.bib

---
---

@article{albuquerquejeje,
    Title = {Directional correction of modeled sea and swell wave heights using satellite altimeter data},
    Journal = {Ocean Modelling},
    Volume = {131},
    Pages = {103 - 114},
    Year = {2018},
    Issn = {1463-5003},
    Doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2018.09.001},
    Url = {http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1463500318301379},
    Author = {João Albuquerque and Jose A.A. Antolínez and Ana Rueda and Fernando J. Méndez and Giovanni Coco},
    Keywords = {Hindcast, Satellite data, Directional sea and swell correction},
    Abstract = {This paper proposes a buoy independent directional calibration methodology that uses satellite altimeter data to correct the simultaneous wind-sea and all swell partitions available from wave hindcasts. The proposed technique was applied to a 20-year wave hindcast in the New Zealand region and showed promising results. The method could potentially be applied worldwide to fully assess systematic errors in wind-sea and swell partitions.}}
    
@inproceedings{scarfe,
author = {Black, Kerry and E, Scarfe and Elwany, Hany and ST, Mead},
year = {2003},
month = {06},
pages = {},
title = {The Science of Surfing Waves and Surfing Breaks – A Review}
}
    
@phdthesis{killo,
year = {2011},
month = {10},
url = {http://hdl.handle.net/10902/1326},
abstract = {RESUMEN: Esta tesis presenta el primer estudio científico acerca de la ocurrencia de condiciones favorables para el surf en las escalas global y regional (en este caso en el Mar Cantábrico). Para ello han sido empleadas bases de datos de reanálisis atmosféricos y de oleaje previamente calibrados, los cuales permiten estimar la calidad de las condiciones y la consistencia (días de buenas condiciones de surf) la cual es la principal característica en la disponibilidad de recurso (Lazarow et al., 2007). Los valores medios obtenidos muestran una alta relación con el patrón general de circulación atmosférica y con las características de propagación de los oleajes tipo swell y, por lo tanto, con las variaciones estacionales de los mismos. El estudio de la variabilidad estacional ha sido investigado relacionando la consistencia mensual con diferentes índices climáticos como el SOI (Southern Oscillation Index) o la NAO (North Atlantic Oscillation) entre otros, mostrando valores altos de correlación. El análisis de las tendencias en el largo plazo muestra un incremento generalizado en las costas con orientación oeste (ej. 20 horas/año en California), lo cual coincide con un incremento de la actividad extratropical durante el periodo de tiempo analizado. En la escala regional han sido empleadas técnicas de regionalización para obtener campos de oleaje y viento de alta resolución con el objetivo de mejorar la estima de la calidad de las condiciones de surf. Para ello, han sido calculadas la dispersión frecuencial y direccional del espectro de oleaje mejorando la estima actual de la calidad, la cual es altamente dependiente de los procesos de propagación del oleaje por aguas someras. La variabilidad climática en esta escala ha sido estudiada por medio de técnicas de clasificación de la atmósfera que permiten obtener patrones preferenciales de variabilidad en diferentes escalas temporales: tipos de tiempo (3 días) y patrones climáticos (1 mes). Estas técnicas permiten relacionar unívocamente un estado de la atmosfera con una distribución específica de la energía del oleaje en el dominio de las frecuencias y direcciones. Esta metodología permite además analizar la variabilidad en la forma espectral debida al cambio climático o la variabilidad climática natural.},
abstract = {ABSTRACT: This thesis presents the firs scientific study of the surf conditions occurrence at a global and a regional scale (herein Cantabrian Sea). Calibrated wave and wind hindcast data bases have used as the ground true estimating surf quality and consistency (days of good surfing conditions) which is the most striking feature in surf resource availability (Lazarow et al., 2007). Mean consistency values are calculated finding spatial patterns highly related with the general circulation scheme and swell traveling properties and thus seasonality. Controls of inter-annual variability are investigated by comparing occurrence values with global and regional climate patterns. Southern Oscillation Index (SOI), North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) between others, have been related to surf occurrence, showing a great influence at both, global and regional scales. Analysis of long term trends shows an increase in the probability of surfable events over the west facing coasts on the planet (e.g. 20 hours/year in California coasts), according with previous studies which indicate increased extra-tropical storminess during the past few years. Moreover, downscaling techniques have been employed obtaining high resolution wave and wind fields in order to asses surf quality in a regional scale. At this scale, spectral directional and frequency spreading have been also determined improving the current estimation of the surf quality, which is highly related to the wave shallow water processes. Clustering statistics techniques have been applied to sea level pressure over the North Atlantic obtaining leading patterns of weather (3 days) and climate variability (1 month) corresponding to AO (Arctic Oscillation), NAO or EA (East Atlantic Oscillation) atmospheric states. These techniques allow univocal relating some specific state of the atmosphere with one wave energy distribution through frequencies and directions domain, including high frequency energy coming from local winds. In addition the proposed methodology makes possible analyzing spectral variability due to climate change or natural climatic variability.},
publisher = {Universidad de Cantabria},
publisher = {Tesis Doctorales en Red (TDR)},
title = {Variabilidad espacial y temporal del recurso surf: metodología y resultados},
author = {Espejo Hermosa, Antonio},
}
    
@article{smc,
author = {González, Mauricio and Medina, Raúl and Gonzalez-Ondina, Jose and Osorio, Andrés and Mendez, Fernando and García, E.},
year = {2007},
month = {07},
pages = {916-931},
title = {An integrated coastal modeling system for analyzing beach processes and beach restoration projects, SMC},
volume = {33},
journal = {Computers & Geosciences},
doi = {10.1016/j.cageo.2006.12.005}
}
    
@article{caires,
author = {Caires, Sofia and Sterl, Andreas},
year = {2003},
month = {03},
pages = {},
title = {Validation of ocean and wind data using triple collocation},
volume = {108},
journal = {Journal of Geophysical Research},
doi = {10.1029/2002JC001491}
}
    
@article{csiro,
Title = {CAWCR Wave Hindcast 1979-2010},
Author = {Thomas Durrant and Mark Hemer and Claire Trenham and Diana Greenslade},
Doi = {https://doi.org/10.4225/08/523168703DCC5}}

@article{sommdakmeans,
title = "Analysis of clustering and selection algorithms for the study of multivariate wave climate",
journal = "Coastal Engineering",
volume = "58",
number = "6",
pages = "453 - 462",
year = "2011",
issn = "0378-3839",
doi = "https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.02.003",
url = "http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383911000354",
author = "Paula Camus and Fernando J. Mendez and Raul Medina and Antonio S. Cofiño",
keywords = "Data mining, K-means, Maximum dissimilarity algorithm, Probability density function, Reanalysis database, Self-organizing maps",
abstract = "Recent wave reanalysis databases require the application of techniques capable of managing huge amounts of information. In this paper, several clustering and selection algorithms: K-Means (KMA), self-organizing maps (SOM) and Maximum Dissimilarity (MDA) have been applied to analyze trivariate hourly time series of met-ocean parameters (significant wave height, mean period, and mean wave direction). A methodology has been developed to apply the aforementioned techniques to wave climate analysis, which implies data pre-processing and slight modifications in the algorithms. Results show that: a) the SOM classifies the wave climate in the relevant “wave types” projected in a bidimensional lattice, providing an easy visualization and probabilistic multidimensional analysis; b) the KMA technique correctly represents the average wave climate and can be used in several coastal applications such as longshore drift or harbor agitation; c) the MDA algorithm allows selecting a representative subset of the wave climate diversity quite suitable to be implemented in a nearshore propagation methodology."
}

@article{tidy,
author = {Wickham, Hadley},
year = {2014},
month = {09},
pages = {},
title = {Tidy data},
volume = {14},
journal = {The American Statistician},
doi = {10.18637/jss.v059.i10}
}

@article{dow,
title = "High resolution downscaled ocean waves (DOW) reanalysis in coastal areas",
journal = "Coastal Engineering",
volume = "72",
pages = "56 - 68",
year = "2013",
issn = "0378-3839",
doi = "https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.09.002",
url = "http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383912001457",
author = "Paula Camus and Fernando J. Mendez and Raul Medina and Antonio Tomas and Cristina Izaguirre",
keywords = "Dynamical downscaling, Hybrid downscaling, Reanalysis database, Statistical downscaling, Wave climate, Wave propagation",
abstract = "Large-scale wave reanalysis databases (0.1°–1° spatial resolution) provide valuable information for wave climate research and ocean applications which require long-term time series (>20years) of hourly sea state parameters. However, coastal studies need a more detailed spatial resolution (50–500m) including wave transformation processes in shallow waters. This specific problem, called downscaling, is usually solved applying a dynamical approach by means of numerical wave propagation models requiring a high computational time effort. Besides, the use of atmospheric reanalysis and wave generation and propagation numerical models introduce some uncertainties and errors that must be dealt with. In this work, we present a global framework to downscale wave reanalysis to coastal areas, taking into account the correction of open sea significant wave height (directional calibration) and drastically reducing the CPU time effort (about 1000×) by using a hybrid methodology which combines numerical models (dynamical downscaling) and mathematical tools (statistical downscaling). The spatial wave variability along the boundaries of the propagation domain and the simultaneous wind fields are taking into account in the numerical propagations to performance similarly to the dynamical downscaling approach. The principal component analysis is applied to the model forcings to reduce the data dimension simplifying the selection of a subset of numerical simulations and the definition of the wave transfer function which incorporates the dependency of the wave spatial variability and the non-uniform wind forcings. The methodology has been tested in a case study on the northern coast of Spain and validated using shallow water buoys, confirming a good reproduction of the hourly time series structure and the different statistical parameters."
}

@article{somcamus,
    author = {Camus, Paula and Cofiño, Antonio S. and Mendez, Fernando J. and Medina, Raul},
    title = "{Multivariate Wave Climate Using Self-Organizing Maps}",
    journal = {Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology},
    volume = {28},
    number = {11},
    pages = {1554-1568},
    year = {2011},
    month = {11},
    abstract = "{The visual description of wave climate is usually limited to two-dimensional conditional histograms. In this work, self-organizing maps (SOMs), because of their visualization properties, are used to characterize multivariate wave climate. The SOMs are applied to time series of sea-state parameters at a particular location provided by ocean reanalysis databases. Trivariate (significant wave height, mean period, and mean direction), pentavariate (the previous wave parameters and wind velocity and direction), and hexavariate (three wave parameters of the sea and swell components; or the wave, wind, and storm surge) classifications are explored. This clustering technique is also applied to wave and wind data at several locations to analyze their spatial relationship. Several processes are established in order to improve the results, the most relevant being a preselection of data by means a maximum dissimilarity algorithm (MDA). Results show that the SOM identifies the relevant multivariate sea-state types at a particular location spanning the historical variability, and provides an outstanding analysis of the dependency between the different parameters by visual inspection. In the case of wave climate characterizations for several locations the SOM is able to extract the qualitative spatial sea-state patterns, allowing the analysis of the spatial variability and the relationship between different locations. Moreover, the distribution of sea states over the reanalysis period defines a probability density function on the lattice, providing a visual interpretation of the seasonality and interannuality of the multivariate wave climate.}",
    issn = {0739-0572},
    doi = {10.1175/JTECH-D-11-00027.1},
    url = {https://doi.org/10.1175/JTECH-D-11-00027.1},
    eprint = {https://journals.ametsoc.org/jtech/article-pdf/28/11/1554/3345564/jtech-d-11-00027\_1.pdf},
}

@book{waves, 
place={Cambridge}, 
title={Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters}, 
DOI={10.1017/CBO9780511618536}, 
publisher={Cambridge University Press}, 
author={Holthuijsen, Leo H.}, 
year={2007}}

@article{methodtop,
title = "A hybrid efficient method to downscale wave climate to coastal areas",
journal = "Coastal Engineering",
volume = "58",
number = "9",
pages = "851 - 862",
year = "2011",
issn = "0378-3839",
doi = "https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.05.007",
url = "http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383911000676",
author = "Paula Camus and Fernando J. Mendez and Raul Medina",
keywords = "Dynamical downscaling, Maximum dissimilarity algorithm, Radial basis function, Reanalysis database, Statistical downscaling, Wave propagation",
abstract = "Long-term time series of sea state parameters are required in different coastal engineering applications. In order to obtain wave data at shallow water and due to the scarcity of instrumental data, ocean wave reanalysis databases ought to be downscaled to increase the spatial resolution and simulate the wave transformation process. In this paper, a hybrid downscaling methodology to transfer wave climate to coastal areas has been developed combining a numerical wave model (dynamical downscaling) with mathematical tools (statistical downscaling). A maximum dissimilarity selection algorithm (MDA) is applied in order to obtain a representative subset of sea states in deep water areas. The reduced number of selected cases spans the marine climate variability, guaranteeing that all possible sea states are represented and capturing even the extreme events. These sea states are propagated using a state-of-the-art wave propagation model. The time series of the propagated sea state parameters at a particular location are reconstructed using a non-linear interpolation technique based on radial basis functions (RBFs), providing excellent results in a high dimensional space with scattered data as occurs in the cases selected with MDA. The numerical validation of the results confirms the ability of the developed methodology to reconstruct sea state time series in shallow water at a particular location and to estimate different spatial wave climate parameters with a considerable reduction in the computational effort."
}

@article{specs,
author = {Kumar, Nirnimesh and Cahl, Douglas and Crosby, Sean and Voulgaris, George},
year = {2017},
month = {04},
pages = {},
title = {Bulk vs. Spectral Wave Parameters: Implications on Stokes Drift Estimates, Regional Wave Modeling, and HF Radars Applications},
volume = {47},
journal = {Journal of Physical Oceanography},
doi = {10.1175/JPO-D-16-0203.1}
}

@article{bernabeu,
author = {Bernabeu, Ana and Medina, Raúl and Vidal, Cesar},
year = {2003},
month = {06},
pages = {95-116},
title = {A morphological model of the beach profile integrating wave and tidal influences},
volume = {197},
journal = {Marine Geology - MAR GEOLOGY},
doi = {10.1016/S0025-3227(03)00087-2}
}

@article{grana,
author = {Moragues, María Victoria and Clavero, María and Losada, Miguel},
year = {2020},
month = {04},
pages = {296},
title = {Wave Breaker Types on a Smooth and Impermeable 1:10 Slope},
volume = {8},
journal = {Journal of Marine Science and Engineering},
doi = {10.3390/jmse8040296}
}

@article{sort,
title = "Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis",
journal = "Marine Geology",
volume = "56",
number = "1",
pages = "93 - 118",
year = "1984",
issn = "0025-3227",
doi = "https://doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(84)90008-2",
url = "http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0025322784900082",
author = "L.D Wright and A.D Short",
abstract = "A synthesis of some results obtained over the period 1979–1982 from a study of beach and surf zone dynamics is presented. The paper deals with the different natural beach states, the process signatures associated with these states, environmental controls on modal beach state, and the temporal variability of beach state and beach profiles. Hydrodynamic processes and the relative contributions of different mechanisms to sediment transport and morphologic change differ dramatically as functions of beach state, that is depending on whether the surf zone and beach are reflective, dissipative or in one of several intermediate states. Depending on beach state, near bottom currents show variations in the relative dominance of motions due to: incident waves, subharmonic oscillations, infragravity oscillations, and mean longshore and rip currents. On reflective beaches, incident waves and subharmonic edge waves are dominant. In highly dissipative surf zones, shoreward decay of incident waves is accompanied by shoreward growth of infragravity energy; in the inner surf zone, currents associated with infragravity standing waves dominate. On intermediate states with pronounced bar-trough (straight or crescentic) topographies, incident wave orbital velocities are generally dominant but significant roles are also played by subharmonic and infragravity standing waves, longshore currents, and rips. The strongest rips and associated feeder currents occur in association with intermediate transverse bar and rip topographies. Long-term consecutive surveys of different beaches with contrasting local environmental conditions provide the data sets for empirical—statistical assessment of beach mobility, direction of change and response to environmental conditions. Conditions of persistently high wave energy combined with abundant and/or fine grained sediment results in maintaining highly dissipative states which exhibit very low mobility. Relatively low mobility is also associated with persistently low-steepness waves acting on coarsegrained beach sediments. In such cases, the modal beach state is reflective. The greatest degree of mobility is associated with intermediate but highly changeable wave conditions, medium grained sediment and a modest or meager sediment supply. Under such conditions, the beach and surf zone tend to alternate among the intermediate states and to exhibit well-developed bar trough and rhythmic topographies. A good association is found between beach state and the environmental parameter Ω = Hb(w̄sT) where Hb is breaker height, w̄s is mean sediment fall velocity and T is wave period. Temporal variability of beach state reflects, in part, the temporal variability and rate of change of Ω, which, in turn depends on deep-water wave climate and nearshore wave modifications."
}

@article{vosarena,
title = "CoastSat: A Google Earth Engine-enabled Python toolkit to extract shorelines from publicly available satellite imagery",
journal = "Environmental Modelling & Software",
volume = "122",
pages = "104528",
year = "2019",
issn = "1364-8152",
doi = "https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envsoft.2019.104528",
url = "http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1364815219300490",
author = "Kilian Vos and Kristen D. Splinter and Mitchell D. Harley and Joshua A. Simmons and Ian L. Turner",
keywords = "Google Earth Engine, Shoreline mapping, Landsat, Sentinel-2, Sub-pixel resolution",
abstract = "CoastSat is an open-source software toolkit written in Python that enables the user to obtain time-series of shoreline position at any sandy coastline worldwide from 30+ years (and growing) of publicly available satellite imagery. The toolkit exploits the capabilities of Google Earth Engine to efficiently retrieve Landsat and Sentinel-2 images cropped to any user-defined region of interest. The resulting images are pre-processed to remove cloudy pixels and enhance spatial resolution, before applying a robust and generic shoreline detection algorithm. This novel shoreline detection technique combines a supervised image classification and a sub-pixel resolution border segmentation to map the position of the shoreline with an accuracy of ~10 m. The purpose of CoastSat is to provide coastal managers, engineers and scientists a user-friendly and practical toolkit to monitor and explore their coastlines. The software is freely-available on GitHub (https://github.com/kvos/CoastSat) and is accompanied by guided examples (Jupyter Notebook) plus step-by-step README documentation."
}

@article{arenita,
author = {Narra, Pedro and Coelho, Carlos and Fonseca, Jorge},
year = {2015},
month = {05},
pages = {},
title = {Sediment grain size variation along a cross- shore profile – representative d50},
volume = {19},
journal = {Journal of Coastal Conservation},
doi = {10.1007/s11852-015-0392-x}
}

@ARTICLE{chino,
       author = {{Qian}, Chengcheng and {Jiang}, Haoyu and {Wang}, Xuan and {Chen}, Ge},
        title = "{Climatology of Wind-Seas and Swells in the China Seas from Wave Hindcast}",
      journal = {Journal of Ocean University of China},
     keywords = {the China Seas, wind-sea, swell, wave climate, WAVEWATCH III},
         year = 2019,
        month = nov,
       volume = {19},
       number = {1},
        pages = {90-100},
          doi = {10.1007/s11802-020-3924-4},
       adsurl = {https://ui.adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/2019JOUC...19...90Q},
      adsnote = {Provided by the SAO/NASA Astrophysics Data System}
}

@article{joao2,
    author = {Mínguez, R. and Espejo, A. and Tomás, A. and Méndez, F. J. and Losada, I. J.},
    title = "{Directional Calibration of Wave Reanalysis Databases Using Instrumental Data}",
    journal = {Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology},
    volume = {28},
    number = {11},
    pages = {1466-1485},
    year = {2011},
    month = {11},
    abstract = "{Wave reanalysis databases (WRDBs) offer important advantages for the statistical characterization of wave climate (continuous time series, good spatial coverage, constant time span, homogeneous forcing, and more than a 40-yr-long time series) and for this reason, they have become a powerful tool for the design of offshore and coastal structures. However, WRDBs are not quantitatively perfect and corrections using instrumental observations must be addressed before they are used; this process is called calibration. The calibration is especially relevant near the coast and in areas where the orography is complex, since in these places the inaccuracy of WRDB is evident because of the bad description of the wind fields (i.e., insufficient forcing resolution). The quantitative differences between numerical and instrumental data suggest that different corrections should be applied depending on the mean direction of the sea state. This paper proposes a calibration method based on a nonlinear regression problem, where the corresponding correction parameters vary smoothly along the possible wave directions by means of cubic splines. The correction of significant wave height is performed using instrumental data: (i) buoy records and/or (ii) satellite data. The performance of the method is illustrated considering data from different locations around Spain.}",
    issn = {0739-0572},
    doi = {10.1175/JTECH-D-11-00008.1},
    url = {https://doi.org/10.1175/JTECH-D-11-00008.1},
    eprint = {https://journals.ametsoc.org/jtech/article-pdf/28/11/1466/3345390/jtech-d-11-00008\_1.pdf},
}

@article{rippa,
author = {Rippa, Shmuel},
year = {1999},
month = {11},
pages = {193-210},
title = {An algorithm for selecting a good parameter c in radial basis function interpolation},
volume = {11},
journal = {Advances in Computational Mathematics},
doi = {10.1023/A:1018975909870}
}

@article{mdanigga,
author = {Kennard, R. and Stone, LA},
year = {2012},
month = {04},
pages = {137-148},
title = {Computer Aided Design of Experiments},
volume = {11},
journal = {Technometrics},
doi = {10.1080/00401706.1969.10490666}
}

@article{gow2,
title = "GOW2: A global wave hindcast for coastal applications",
journal = "Coastal Engineering",
volume = "124",
pages = "1 - 11",
year = "2017",
issn = "0378-3839",
doi = "https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2017.03.005",
url = "http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383917300443",
author = "Jorge Perez and Melisa Menendez and Inigo J. Losada",
keywords = "Waves, Cyclones, Hindcast, Validation, Wave modeling, Wave spectra",
abstract = "Global wave hindcasts provide wave climate information for long time periods which helps to improve our understanding of climate variability, long term trends and extremes. This information is extremely useful for coastal studies and can be used both directly or as boundary conditions for regional and local downscalings. This work presents the GOW2 database, a long-term wave hindcast covering the world coastline with improved resolution in coastal areas and along ocean islands. For developing the GOW2 hindcast, WAVEWATCH III wave model is used in a multigrid two-way nesting configuration from 1979 onwards. The multigrid includes a global grid of half degree spatial resolution, specific grids configured for the Arctic and the Antarctic polar areas, and a grid of higher resolution (about 25km) for all the coastal locations at a depth shallower than 200m. Available outputs include hourly sea state parameters (e.g. significant wave height, peak period, mean wave direction) and series of 3-h spectra at more than 40000 locations in coastal areas. Comparisons with instrumental data show a clear improvement with respect to existing global hindcasts, especially in semi-enclosed basins and areas with a complex bathymetry. The effect of tropical cyclones is also well-captured thanks to the high resolution of the forcings and the wave model setup. The new database shows a high potential for a variety of applications in coastal engineering."
}

@article{franke,
author = {Oqielat, Moa'Ath},
year = {2017},
month = {10},
pages = {},
title = {Radial Basis Function Method For Modelling Leaf Surface from Real Leaf Data},
journal = {Australian Journal of Basic and Applied Sciences}
}

@article{gowon,
title = "A Global Ocean Wave (GOW) calibrated reanalysis from 1948 onwards",
journal = "Coastal Engineering",
volume = "65",
pages = "38 - 55",
year = "2012",
issn = "0378-3839",
doi = "https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.03.003",
url = "http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383912000452",
author = "B.G. Reguero and M. Menéndez and F.J. Méndez and R. Mínguez and I.J. Losada",
keywords = "Waves, Wave climate, Reanalysis, Validation, Calibration, Outliers",
abstract = "Wind wave reanalyses have become a valuable source of information for wave climate research and ocean and coastal applications over the last decade. Nowadays, wave reanalyses databases generated with third generation models provide useful wave climate information to complement, both in time and space, the instrumental measurements (buoys and alimetry observations). In this work, a new global wave reanalysis (GOW) from 1948 onwards is presented. GOW dataset is intended to be periodically updated and it is based on a calibration of a model hindcast with satellite altimetry data, after verification against historical data. The outliers due to tropical cyclones (not simulated due to insufficient resolution in the wind forcing) are identified and not taken into account in the process to correct the simulated wave heights with the altimeter data. The results are validated with satellite measurements in time and space. This new calibrated database represents appropriately the wave climate characteristics since 1948 and aims to be the longest and up-to-date wave dataset for global wave climate variability analysis as well as for many coastal engineering applications."
}

@book{kohonen,
author = {Kohonen, Teuvo and Schroeder, Manfred and Huang, Thomas},
year = {2001},
month = {01},
pages = {},
title = {Self-Organizing Maps},
isbn = {3540679219}
}

@article{norm,
author = {Sola, J. and Sevilla, Joaquin},
year = {1997},
month = {07},
pages = {1464 - 1468},
title = {Importance of input data normalization for the application of neural networks to complex industrial problems},
volume = {44},
journal = {Nuclear Science, IEEE Transactions on},
doi = {10.1109/23.589532}
}

@book{polinsky,
author = {Polinsky, A. and Feinstein, R.D. and Shi, S. and Kuki, A.},
year = {1996},
month = {07},
pages = {219 - 232},
title = {Software for automated design of exploratory and targeted combinatorial libraries},
volume = {},
journal = {Molecular Diversity and Combinatorial Chemistry: Libraries and Drug
Discovery. American Chemical Society. Washington D.C.},
}

@article{juanjo,
author = {González Trueba, J.J.},
year = {2012},
title = {Manifiesto para la protección de las olas},
journal = {Ed. Surf & Nature Alliance, Santander},
}