PiFire PCB v3?

[nebhead]

Hi All - I was just recently thinking about whether folks here would be interested in a third revision of the PiFire PCB. Some of the changes that I was considering for this design would be:

• Incorporate relays onto the board, instead of a separate module
• Breakout fourth ADC input to screw terms, to use for expansion later
• Dedicated button header for the physical inputs (+3.3v, Up, Down, Enter, GND)
• Move Raspberry Pi to the topside of the board so that it's easier to access when in an enclosure
• ...Others?

Obviously this might mean that board gets bigger and would need a bit of a redesign of the 3D printable enclosures, but it might make life a little easier for newcomers.

Or you can tell me this is totally unnecessary and we can stick with what we have. :)

[weberbox]

I think it is a great idea. I was considering this myself recently as well. I wanted to add solid state relays to the PCB, a header for touchscreen using ce1 in case that ever gets worked on and a header for a lid sensor in case there is some way to ever get that working with PID. I planned on building from my version so buttons and 4th adc would have been included. I ordered more components to build a second PCB then thought well maybe I should just design a new PCB before using everything.

I mean if it is getting that detailed it would be pretty cool to work in a 5v psu to the board as well so it is all contained to one PCB, but I wonder if that could be done cheaper than the ~$12 it cost to just buy one.

I didn't think about the pi being on top, might be nice. I thought a few times it might have been good to design it so other pi's could be used if someone just has one laying around.

[nebhead]

I think it is a great idea. I was considering this myself recently as well. I wanted to add solid state relays to the PCB, a header for touchscreen using ce1 in case that ever gets worked on and a header for a lid sensor in case there is some way to ever get that working with PID. I planned on building from my version so buttons and 4th adc would have been included. I ordered more components to build a second PCB then thought well maybe I should just design a new PCB before using everything.

Yep, was kind of thinking it would be nice to have it more self contained. One thing I was trying to see if I could find on the internet was Molex connectors that could just be mounted on the PCB so the components (power, fan, auger, igniter) could plug directly into the board. But I wasn't able to find anything so far. Other connector suggestions would be welcome.

Also, if you have any experience with Solid State Relay design, I'm wondering if you know what the heck the below component is on the standard modules that we have:

I mean if it is getting that detailed it would be pretty cool to work in a 5v psu to the board as well so it is all contained to one PCB, but I wonder if that could be done cheaper than the ~$12 it cost to just buy one.

Yeah, I was thinking we should leave the PSU off of the design, both for simplicity sake, and for flexibility to use other types of supplies.

I didn't think about the pi being on top, might be nice. I thought a few times it might have been good to design it so other pi's could be used if someone just has one laying around.

Yep, my thought was to be more mindful of the placement of components so that it's more serviceable and perhaps easier to design into an enclosure.

With all that said, I'm probably not going to have a ton of time to go work on this right now, but sometime in the future I think it would be fun to take a crack at.

[weberbox]

I think it is a great idea. I was considering this myself recently as well. I wanted to add solid state relays to the PCB, a header for touchscreen using ce1 in case that ever gets worked on and a header for a lid sensor in case there is some way to ever get that working with PID. I planned on building from my version so buttons and 4th adc would have been included. I ordered more components to build a second PCB then thought well maybe I should just design a new PCB before using everything.

Yep, was kind of thinking it would be nice to have it more self contained. One thing I was trying to see if I could find on the internet was Molex connectors that could just be mounted on the PCB so the components (power, fan, auger, igniter) could plug directly into the board. But I wasn't able to find anything so far. Other connector suggestions would be welcome.

Also, if you have any experience with Solid State Relay design, I'm wondering if you know what the heck the below component is on the standard modules that we have:

I mean if it is getting that detailed it would be pretty cool to work in a 5v psu to the board as well so it is all contained to one PCB, but I wonder if that could be done cheaper than the ~$12 it cost to just buy one.

Yeah, I was thinking we should leave the PSU off of the design, both for simplicity sake, and for flexibility to use other types of supplies.

I didn't think about the pi being on top, might be nice. I thought a few times it might have been good to design it so other pi's could be used if someone just has one laying around.

Yep, my thought was to be more mindful of the placement of components so that it's more serviceable and perhaps easier to design into an enclosure.

With all that said, I'm probably not going to have a ton of time to go work on this right now, but sometime in the future I think it would be fun to take a crack at.

Ya I have not had time to dive back in for further design maybe some day.

I hear you on the psu my main reason is the psu is just so huge and takes up a lot of space. Just designing something smaller would be nice. Also probably adding more surface mount items to cut down on pcb size. JLC will mount them for you for a small fee or if you have the equipment you can get the solder template and use a heatplate. That might be less new user friendly but if JLC will do it for cheap might be better might as well do when ordering the pcb. I want to try at some point to get an all in one board and get it as small as possible for easy mounting inside whatever grill.

Another thing I was thinking was a main connector for the display, distance etc instead of so many headers. More space saving. But I haven't looked to see what exists yet. That also means it might require a special crimper unless there is a connector that uses the dupont pins.

As for the component on the PCB I believe the picture is of a fuse they have on the load side.

Something like this https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0251003MXL?qs=LpXnx4WbYtB1hbrpVYyxMg%3D%3D&mgh=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAys2MBhDOARIsAFf1D1fLuO99X6LEz4tI6rNjLBf-OU3TEFzjLVwPFmFXNP30V0p8iqGMuBUaAhdjEALw_wcB

I enjoyed pcb designing so if I ever get around to it I will share what I come up with.

[weberbox]

For some reason I cannot edit my last post but this fuse is probably more what they would be using.

250vac 2a

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0263002WRT1L?qs=OJFHm2hVE4GTx6JkDwOlSg%3D%3D

[nebhead]

For some reason I cannot edit my last post but this fuse is probably more what they would be using.

250vac 2a

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0263002WRT1L?qs=OJFHm2hVE4GTx6JkDwOlSg%3D%3D

Oh awesome! Mystery solved. I was going to try to find an existing Solid State Relay Design on EasyEDA to leverage, and couldn't find too much. So I was trying to reverse engineer the commercially available modules, which are relatively simple in design, however I just couldn't figure out what this part was - so this is going to help immensely.

I'm all for doing SMT with JLCPCB. I have been wanting to try that out - also I've been wanting to try out KiCAD instead of the EasyEDA tool, but the integration they have with manufacturing makes it really simple to do online.

New connector types would be great. Actually, I have a loose wire for my down button right now and it's driving me crazy. It would be great to have something that is more solid than the Dupont connectors so they don't accidentally disconnect. That also has me thinking about the connections for the probes. Maybe have both screw terminals and some other kind of connector (like Duponts) such that it's easier to connect the smaller wires, perhaps has less interface resistance.

BTW, I was out camping this last weekend and saw someone with a full size Traeger at their campsite - which made me think of your situation. :) Also made me think... I need a camp smoker. :D

[weberbox]

It was fun taking it camping and everyone that was with us enjoyed it as well :D

I worked on power loss recovery and re wrote it two or three times but ran into issues each time.

First I decided to use time but realized that it would require writing to the sdcard too often. I didn't like that since moving to redis helped cut down on writing it seems like a step backwards.

Next was to use temperature but then I realized there is no set temp for smoke mode and if trying to collect real time temp it would result in the same thing as time and require writing to the sdcard too often.

The issue becomes whatever is being checked need to be persistent since a power loss is unexpected you can never plan to write on loss unless there was a backup battery involved.

A battery or capacitors is also something I started thinking about but it can get complicated and requires more hardware. I liked the idea though so that way it could be used for power loss recovery and also allow pifire to gracefully shutdown when the cord it pulled. Since pifire is not a read only files system there is always a possibility for data corruption when just pulling the plug. The battery was something for down the road though and I wanted to think of a software way to deal with power loss.

I still think about it here and there and hopefully I can come up with something eventually as it would be a cool feature.

Maybe in the meantime it could just be a notification so at least you know. But that wouldn't help an overnight cook if you are sleeping

[nebhead]

@weberbox - On a slightly unrelated note, you wouldn't have any spare "button" boards would you? If so, I wouldn't mind giving you a few bucks for shipping etc. to get one from you. I'd really like to have a cleaner solution than what I have right now. No worries if it's too much trouble.

Thanks!
Ben.

[JKonopacki]

Ben/All,
So first I wanted to say that the PIFIRE project is awesome. The firmware auto loader and webUI are the best I have seen. As I said to Ben today I would be willing to take on the mechanicals for a rev 3.0. Most of what I have read here I agree with, ie.

• more robust connection system
• integrate relays onto PCBA
• integrate H-Bridge for simple DC motor speed control
• integrate ADC onboard
• Integrate Type K thermocouples on board. MAX31855 IC, The thermistors are just too fragile for combustion temps
• flip the RaspPI and provide thermal mitigation
• create an IP67 enclosure with GORE vent
• Also I would like to propose we incorporate a few programmable faults, mainly pertaining to the combustion safety. My world would have a watchdog timer to ensure cpu health as well but that may be too involved.

I will begin working on the model and share an e-drawing to this thread. As I told Ben I'm willing to fund a percentage on this development.

Kono

[nebhead]

• more robust connection system

Any thoughts on what kinds of connectors would be good and readily available? This is one that I have been puzzling over, but would be great to work out.

• integrate relays onto PCBA

Agreed! Looking at Solid State relays to make it simple and robust.

• integrate H-Bridge for simple DC motor speed control

Curious, is this for newer grill components, i.e. Traeger fans, etc.?

• integrate ADC onboard

Yep, great idea. Should be very easy to integrate. Adafruit has the schematics posted and we can just utilize that design.

• Integrate Type K thermocouples on board. MAX31855 IC, The thermistors are just too fragile for combustion temps

Are you thinking this for the Grill Probe? Or the food probes? Or both? Adafruit also has their PCB designs available for the MAX318x5 which could be incorporated. But it might be more costly to have multiple MAX318x5 components to support up to four probes/RTDs.

• flip the RaspPI and provide thermal mitigation

Thinking fan or heat sink?

• create an IP67 enclosure with GORE vent

Very good idea! Do you have experience with this?

• Also I would like to propose we incorporate a few programmable faults, mainly pertaining to the combustion safety. My world would have a watchdog timer to ensure cpu health as well but that may be too involved.

Great! Right now we have max grill temperature and we have min grill temp(firepot overload). Any other faults that might be helpful?

[JKonopacki]

PIFIRE PCBA V3.0_11.19.2021.zip
Ben,

I got a start on the packaging check out the e-drawing. You can download a viewer here:
https://www.solidworks.com/sw/support/eDrawings/e2_downloadcheck.htm

-Imported the PI Zero W model
-Placed 4 relays
-connectors choices are boundless. What you see in this model is a WAGO. This is a spring contact. Push the slot and it opens an aperture for the wire. Remove tension on the slot and it grabs the wire. Works on stranded or solidcore. These are used exclusively for automation these days because there is no crimping and they are great for shock and vibe. The downside is they are fairly large as you can see in the model. The other benefit is they do carry them for type K thermocouples as well.
-thermocouple on grill probe and a pot probe to detect combustion temps. the meat probes can be thermistors.
-heat sink for thermal mitigation, not sure what we need yet but I was going to take some temps and see what the rise is.
-Ingress Protection is one part of what I design for for Automotive Inverters.
-Also I use a hall effect sensor for the CNC I built. check out the little fuse datasheet. Its a two wire switch which is activated by magnetic field ie magnet. really simple and cheap.

do you have a share drive we can use for all this data or do we keep it here, or I can create one. Might be difficult to manage this as we progress.

Anyway, all I have for today.

Cheers
Kono

Littelfuse_Reed_Sensors_59065_Datasheet.pdf-934426.pdf
1811021933_Ningbo-Songle-Relay-SRD-05VDC-SL-C_C35449.pdf

[nebhead]

PIFIRE PCBA V3.0_11.19.2021.zip Ben,

I got a start on the packaging check out the e-drawing. You can download a viewer here: https://www.solidworks.com/sw/support/eDrawings/e2_downloadcheck.htm

Very cool, but can you just post some screen captures here? I was trying to get the viewer up and running on my machine and there were just too many hoops to jump through to get it going.

[JKonopacki]

Here ya go.
Kono

[JKonopacki]

This might be worth looking at for the sealed enclosure. Both Deutch and Amphenol make a version of this enclosure and its rated at IP67. They have different connector configuration


s.

[weberbox]

Rough guess on the display plate. I wish the screen could be bigger. I could not find any ili9341 or st778 screens where the LCD covers almost the entire pcb there is usually space to the sides and it makes them too wide to fit through the grill opening.

[nebhead]

Perfect, I use the rotary encoder exactly for that reason, plus it looks more neater to me, and it works perfect.

Oh, cool! Are you using the ili9341_encoder module for this? This was submitted by @lausdahl and I haven't had time to test. But I was thinking I might switch to this since I have several KY040 rotary encoders just collecting dust right now.

[faisalhusain007]

Oh, cool! Are you using the ili9341_encoder module for this? This was submitted by @lausdahl

Yes but his original did not work with our setup, I changed display_ili9341_encoder to suit our screen and io better, I have been meaning to submit request will do it now.

[nebhead]

Yes but his original did not work with our setup, I changed display_ili9341_encoder to suit our screen and io better, I have been meaning to submit request will do it now.

Great, thanks!

[faisalhusain007]

done, sorry been a bit quite as I am back in grey England, but should be back in sunny KL in a few weeks. This is by far the best open pellet smoker controller project I know of.

[JKonopacki]

This looks great. Im glad to see this progress. Let me know how I can help. I can do the CAD/enclosure design and thermal analysis when ready.

I have attached the RaspPi zero CAD step file. You should be able to import into the layout tool. If you need it in a different format just let me know. You may want to incorporate the standoff on your PCB to support the Pi.

This is a through-hole design if that works. standoff are Mc Master Carr

Jeff
RapberryPiZero.zip

[weberbox]

The st7789 2inch display is kind of small but totally readable with the same layout as the ili9341

I might tweak it a little and increase font size or something but I am glad it worked out

[weberbox]

Starting mock up of the new all-in-one design controller.

I have found a few issues unfortunately. The pi is to close to the relays and the sd card does not fit.... oops. I changed the pcb and I hope the next version fits. For this one I am just going to place the pi on an extender to get it high enough for clearance so the boards are not wasted. I think the faceplate is good to go after a few PLA prints so now its time to get it printed in black PETG.

[nebhead]

That looks amazing! Really nice work with the board and the 3D printing. If you need a knob for the encoder, I've got one in my onshape for PiFire: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/f40b8628ab16521bc90fb4d7/w/00f6b6fa1513bef3c8c08d0d/e/da144ecef9f234a4864844b8?renderMode=0&uiState=62b9e17585d15522df56620f

(sorry for the delay in response - just got back from camping in the Santa Cruz mountains)

[weberbox]

That looks amazing! Really nice work with the board and the 3D printing. If you need a knob for the encoder, I've got one in my onshape for PiFire: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/f40b8628ab16521bc90fb4d7/w/00f6b6fa1513bef3c8c08d0d/e/da144ecef9f234a4864844b8?renderMode=0&uiState=62b9e17585d15522df56620f

(sorry for the delay in response - just got back from camping in the Santa Cruz mountains)

Awesome hope you had a great time in Santa Cruz. I need to get over there and camp sometime, I have only passed through.

Thanks for the knob file I was actually going to ask you about it so I did not have to design one from scratch.

I broke down and just ordered new PCB's again last night. The pi sd card was an issue and when I went to start soldering I noticed the MOV was wrong. I had selected a user submitted design in the eda for it and come to find out whoever designed it did it backwards. Oh well just wasted a little time and shipping money.

Hopefully the next batch arrives soon so I can get started on soldering it all up. Can't wait to test it out

I started looking at adding the PWM to a new grillplat file as well as switching over to gpiozero. Should be easier once I have a board to built and test.

Gpiozero makes it a lot easier to toggle relays etc. But I did notice that since there is a high and low trigger level that might need to be reworked a bit in the grillplat files as well as the displays and control. An example in the displays is looking for the relays being on and it is looking for 0 which ~false so seems backwards. Would probably need to switch those or just reverse the logic in grillplat I guess.

[calonmerc]

I really love the idea of using an encoder instead of buttons, has there been any additional progress on this? Or is there code I can borrow to look at implementing?

[nebhead]

I really love the idea of using an encoder instead of buttons, has there been any additional progress on this? Or is there code I can borrow to look at implementing?

Yep, this is "done" and is currently implemented in the main branch (and of course in the development branch). It can be selected by going to the wizard and choosing the ILI9341e (Standard) option:

I'm currently using it on my grill and it works pretty well.

[thompatry]

Hey Guys,

I have been following this project for a little while. I have a question, is it possible to incorporate the use of any Pi model? For example, make different standoff holes. The reason I ask, with Pi's being expensive by scalpers and limited from retailers, it would be awesome to be able to just grab any Pi and throw it together.

Thoughts?

[weberbox]

Ya you should be able to use other pi's without issue. The current pcb I am designing is kind of specific to a purpose of fitting directly behind the display panel and does not have any room for extra standoffs but if you might be able to use it on the back side of the board or use an FPC cable to mount it remotely.

[nebhead]

@weberbox is correct, any 40pin Pi will work. Obviously you'll want one that is WiFi equipped (or hardwired to your network). Using a cable would probably be your best bet to connect to either PCB, given that the bigger Pi's with their network and USB stacks might interfere physically with the PiFire PCB.

[JKonopacki]

James, Very nice work. As I have been fairly useless in the development of this iteration I would be happy to fund this build for you Ben and I. Jeff

…

On Mon, Jun 27, 2022 at 12:34 PM James Weber ***@***.***> wrote: That looks amazing! Really nice work with the board and the 3D printing. If you need a knob for the encoder, I've got one in my onshape for PiFire: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/f40b8628ab16521bc90fb4d7/w/00f6b6fa1513bef3c8c08d0d/e/da144ecef9f234a4864844b8?renderMode=0&uiState=62b9e17585d15522df56620f (sorry for the delay in response - just got back from camping in the Santa Cruz mountains) Awesome hope you had a great time in Santa Cruz. I need to get over there and camp sometime, I have only passed through. Thanks for the knob file I was actually going to ask you about it so I did not have to design one from scratch. I broke down and just ordered new PCB's again last night. The pi sd card was an issue and when I went to start soldering I noticed the MOV was wrong. I had selected a user submitted design in the eda for it and come to find out whoever designed it did it backwards. Oh well just wasted a little time and shipping money. Hopefully the next batch arrives soon so I can get started on soldering it all up. Can't wait to test it out I started looking at adding the PWM to a new grillplat file as well as switching over to gpiozero. Should be easier once I have a board to built and test. Gpiozero makes it a lot easier to toggle relays etc. But I did notice that since there is a high and low trigger level that might need to be reworked a bit in the grillplat files as well as the displays and control. An example in the displays is looking for the relays being on and it is looking for 0 which ~false so seems backwards. Would probably need to switch those or just reverse the logic in grillplat I guess. — Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <#57 (reply in thread)>, or unsubscribe <https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AE3NXYZUY62OVW6BMOWLPF3VRHQ3DANCNFSM5IFDVE7A> . You are receiving this because you were mentioned.Message ID: ***@***.***>

-- Jeff Konopacki

[weberbox]

Almost ready. Had to run out to a BBQ but the new pcb is ready. Time for testing.

[nebhead]

This is amazing! It looks so good! Really nice job.

[weberbox]

Got back from the BBQ and couldn't help myself had to finish assembling.

It fired up and the grill went to smoke mode. Now to start working on pwm and how the fan should work.

I think with the DC fan we have can have so many options now. Ramping for smoke +, different fan speeds depending on temp, etc. It should be fun testing to see what works and what doesn't.

It looks so cool I am super excited I finally got to put it all together and no magic smoke came out haha.

[weberbox]

Assembled and working great so far.

[nebhead]

Been away for the week camping, but came back to this and I'm just amazed at how good this looks! You really have stepped up and made something amazing. Really awesome job! Can't wait to see what you can do with the DC fan.

[nebhead]

@weberbox - Checking in to see if you are willing to share your newest PCB design and if you feel it's ready for folks to use. Full disclosure, I was thinking I would take your design and perhaps tweak it a bit for my own daily driver purposes - but I really wanted to start with your excellent design first.

[weberbox]

@nebhead Sure I can get it set to public on easy eda. I have used the pcb a handful of times and it seems to be working great with no hardware failures or issues so far.

I just built out a second pcb for my full size grill and hope I can get that installed as soon as I get some extra time.

I have been looking for another zero 2 since my header on the current one is soldered on the wrong side but man there is no stock anywhere and if you can find them people want like $100 which is insane.

I will try to get it set to public soon and get the link posted. Hopefully later tonight or tomorrow.

[nebhead]

@nebhead Sure I can get it set to public on easy eda. I have used the pcb a handful of times and it seems to be working great with no hardware failures or issues so far.

That's great! I really love your design, from looking at the pictures and can't wait to check it out on EasyEDA.

I just built out a second pcb for my full size grill and hope I can get that installed as soon as I get some extra time.

Funny story, I just built out the board that you had previously sent me, and am using that as my current test bench for hardware. It actually didn't take as long as I was thinking it would and I wish I had done it sooner. It's so much easier to test things on real hardware when it can just sit on your desk.

I have been looking for another zero 2 since my header on the current one is soldered on the wrong side but man there is no stock anywhere and if you can find them people want like $100 which is insane.

Oh man, same. I really want to get a second Pi Zero 2 W, as they are just soooo much faster than the Pi Zero W, but I guess I will wait patiently with the rest of the folks. I have heard that it may be possible that the shortages will ease next year. But I'm not holding my breath.

I will try to get it set to public soon and get the link posted. Hopefully later tonight or tomorrow.

Awesome! Thank you so much!

[weberbox]

Ok this should be the pwm pcb.

https://oshwlab.com/zipster85/pifire-controller-pwm-1.2

Also here is a BOM I made since I do not order components from LCSC. It also help when assembling.

PiFire-PWM-1.2-2022-BOM.xlsx

Note R21 is no longer required. I was just jumping it to ground to simulate the selector switch being set to on but with the new development branch you can just select PiFire Only and it ignores the selector switch.

[nebhead]

That's awesome, thank you! I will also add this to the documentation.

[thompatry]

Are you using the 3.2 inch 240 * 320 TFT LCD Display on your Pit Box Design? If so, I would like to model it around the Traeger series. That is awesome you made it an all in one board. Also what are the white slide in plugs called?

[weberbox]

My full size grill is using the 2.8" display. The small grill is a 2.0 screen.

The white connectors are JST-XH style connectors

[tukutt]

Hi,
I am sorry, i didn't find the PCB v3 link ! I just found PCB v2. Can you share it ?
Maybe it's https://oshwlab.com/zipster85/pifire-controller-hat
Thank you !

[nebhead]

Yep, that looks like the right one.

[JKonopacki]

Hi Ben, The set-branches command worked as you suggested. I'm using the ili9341 with standard encoder and it works awesome. Im seeing a major lag (15sec or more) to the temperature reporting. It seems like the screen is refreshing at a constant rate ~ 1 sec but temp does not respond. Anything I can test to help diagnose the issue? Jeff

…

On Mon, May 23, 2022 at 6:40 PM nebhead ***@***.***> wrote: FYI... just pushed an update (maybe a fix) for the issue I was experiencing. So far so good. But time will tell. — Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <#57 (reply in thread)>, or unsubscribe <https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AE3NXY6NS5W4HZ26DFBSOU3VLQJPLANCNFSM5IFDVE7A> . You are receiving this because you were mentioned.Message ID: ***@***.***>

-- Jeff Konopacki

[nebhead]

OK, this is a new one. :) How are you testing that the temperatures are lagging? Are you comparing to the web UI?

For temperature lag that long, it might indicate that we have an issue with the ADS1115 again. Sometimes with I2C communications there can be a delay if there is an issue getting the data from the device. We could test at the command line with some test applications. But maybe before that, perhaps you can send me a list of the modules you are using from the admin page:

[weberbox]

Working on getting the full size grill up and running now.

I broke down and de soldered the 40 pin connector on the pi and flipped it to the other side. Who knows when more will be available and I am not paying $100 for a $15 pi

[Aaronwithanat]

I broke down and de soldered the 40 pin connector on the pi and flipped it to the other side. Who knows when more will be available and I am not paying $100 for a $15 pi

I'm with you there. I resorted to ordering a "kit" for $45 from a site that isn't tracked on the normal rpilocator page. Some of it I won't need but still the most economical place right now with fairly consistent stock. https://chicagodist.com/products/raspberry-pi-zero-2-w-starter-kit

[mtredeye]

@weberbox James, really impressed with your design and am in the process of building it out, I have the PCB on order and was starting to print the enclosure....but I cant seem to find the faceplate you used that mounts the board...I was looking through your designs in onshape, but cant seem to find the right one based on the pictures above...can you point me in the right direction?

[weberbox]

@mtredeye I think your talking about this one?

https://cad.onshape.com/documents/7c30dabaf483914d5d0ea10d/w/34b11bc17b55cc9ec2cbd3f8/e/4b25deded8d3721542a8fc01?renderMode=0&uiState=65487a66e59a8d78400007a9

[mtredeye]

@weberbox Thank you, I did find that one and so now I have a new question, or clarification...I am building for a Traeger...I understand based on what I read you did it for another brand, looking at the two plates (the link above and the original linked to thingiverse for the PiFire GH) measurements are different so I will need to modify either the original plate to fit the board or modify yours to fit the opening of the Traeger correct?

You dont have any documentation related to your build do you? I believe I can figure it out between all the posts but if there is any guidance I should know about ahead of time may be of help.

[mtredeye]

@weberbox Got everything soldered up, forgot to order the screen ?!?! I'm getting old! Think I have everything figured out, except power switch...noticed in your link the box with the power switch...can you verify...I assume that is wired in line to L+ with a 110/120v switch? Do you have a link for the switch you designed for?

Thanks you