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{"Apple___Apple_scab": {"cite": "Ryczkowski, Angela. \"How to Treat Apple Scab Without Chemicals.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/treat-apple-scab-chemicals-86309.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Apple scab is caused by the fungus Venturia inaequalis and appears first as olive-green spots on leaves. A severe, early infection causes extensive leaf drop. Flowers and fruits are also potentially infected, dropping prematurely or becoming malformed or cracked and unusable. With or without chemicals, there is no viable cure for an infected tree during the season once damage is present. The key to managing apple scab is to prevent the primary infection that occurs each year when the fungus, which overwinters on fallen, diseased leaves, produces millions of spores in spring that germinate and infect vulnerable, young apple tissue when conditions are wet.\n\n1\nRake up and destroy or dispose of fallen leaves, flowers and fruit from around the apple tree as they drop throughout the growing season.\n\n2\nSpray the apple tree foliage with a fertilizer mixture that contains 5 percent urea just before leaf fall or apply the urea to fallen leaves as soon as possible after they fall if you will not be able to rake up and destroy or dispose of the leaves. The urea acts as a fertilizer and will hasten the decomposition of fallen leaves.\n\n3\nRake up and destroy or dispose of all leaves and fruit on the ground in fall if you cannot treat them with urea. Try to remove as many of the fallen leaves as possible.\n\n4\nRun a lawn mower over the fallen leaves multiple times or use a mulcher to shred the leaves finely. The goal is to chop the leaves up into very small pieces in order to hasten decomposition so the fungus cannot successfully overwinter on leaves and release spores in the spring.\n\nThings You Will Need\nLawn rake\nUrea fertilizer (optional)\nGarden sprayer\nLawn mower\nTip\nTo avoid problems with scab most effectively, plant only cultivars that demonstrate resistance to scab. Also space trees well to ensure good air circulation around the tree canopies, which will help to reduce the humidity and wetness that encourage fungal infections.remd"}, "Apple___Black_rot": {"cite": "J., Melissa. \"How to Treat Black Rot.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/treat-black-rot-80130.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Black or dark brown spots appearing on the leaves and stems of plants typically indicate the presence of black rot, a bacterial disease or fungal infection that can result in decay and loss of the plant. This discoloration, commonly caused by Boytryosphaeria obtusa, Guignardia bidwellii and Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris, also interrupts fruit production, causing fruits to shrivel and mummify before harvest. As fungal black rot propagates through spores, which overwinter in the dead and diseased parts of the plant, total elimination can prove difficult. However, good management practices are often enough to keep both fungal and bacterial forms of the disease in check.\n\n1\nIdentify the affected plant. Black rot is a common disease of apple trees, grapevines, and crucifer crops such as cabbage, broccoli, radish and turnip.\n\n2\nAssess the plant's symptoms to confirm the presence of black rot. On crucifers, the bacterial infection Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris appears as \"V\" shaped yellow spots on leaves that progress into yellow slime and brown spots on stems. On apple trees, fungal infection Boytryosphaeria obtusa causes purple leaf spots, brown leaf centers, fruit rot and branch cankers. On grapes, the fungus Guignardia bidwellii causes yellow leaf spots, black leaf edges, brown leaf centers, stem lesions and fruit rot.\n\n3\nWeed regularly to improve air circulation and light access around all plants affected by black rot. Remove all dead plant material from the area, placing it into plastic trash bags to prevent further spread of the disease.\n\n4\nPrune the dead or infected branches from apple trees and grapevines, disinfecting the pruning shears with a 70 percent alcohol solution after each cut. Also improve circulation in the center of the plant by pruning away congested branches.\n\n5\nPluck all mummified fruit from apple trees and grapevines as soon as possible, as these house fungal spores and cause the disease to spread. Dispose of the fruit in plastic trash bags.\n\n6\nRotate crucifer crops every two years, using black rot-resistant cultivars. When replanting, soak seeds in hot water to kill black rot and wait until a warm, dry day to sow the seeds.\n\n7\nTreat stubborn grapevine and apple infections with a commercial fungicide containing captan once the year's new growth reaches 4 to 6 inches in length. Add 1 tablespoon of captan fungicide to a gallon of water and mix it thoroughly in a hand sprayer tank. Pumping the handle, coat the branches and leaves completely. Repeat the application once every 7 to 10 days until the fruit begins to change color.\n\nThings You Will Need\nPlastic trash bags\nPruning shears\n70 percent alcohol solution\nCaptan\nHand sprayer\nTip\nBlack rot on cabbage and other crucifers does not respond well to chemical control methods. Basic care to maintain the health and vigor of the plants is typically sufficient.\nWarnings\nDo not use sprinklers to water crucifer crops, as water on foliage can create an ideal environment for black rot.\nWear protective gear when spraying fungicide, such as gloves, long-sleeved clothing, safety goggles and a ventilator mask. Follow all labeling instructions for safe application and disposal."}, "Corn_(maize)___healthy": {"cite": "", "remidy": "plant is healthy"}, "Grape___Black_rot": {"cite": "James, Elyse. \"How to Cure Black Rot in Grapes.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/cure-black-rot-grapes-39699.html. 19 December 2018.", "remidy": "For an avid grape grower, the term black rot has a negative connotation. Black rot (Guignardia bidwelli) is a fungal disease that occurs in grapes grown in a hot and humid climate. This fungal disease has the ability to ruin an entire crop of grapes if it is allowed to spread unchecked. Fortunately, there are both cultural and chemical ways to rid your plants of this disease.\n\nLook for characteristic dark circles on the leaves, dark raisin-like berries and lesions on the leaves and shoots of the grapes to confirm it is black rot. Before you can begin curing the rot, you must diagnose that what you are dealing with is in fact black rot.\n\nCut off the obviously affected parts of the grape vine with a sterile knife. Remove all spotted leaves and the black, mummified grapes. Be extremely thorough and make sure you remove all parts of the plant that are affected by the black rot.\n\nPlace fans in the growing area to keep the plants dry. This will help prevent the rot from spreading to other sections of the plant and will help dry out the newly cut parts of the plant. Black rot is quite contagious and is easily spread by water dripping from one affected part of the plant to another. Drying the plants as quickly as possible after watering or rainfall helps keep the disease in check.\n\nApply a paste of cinnamon mixed with cooking oil to the remaining tissues of the plant. This paste -- when applied to the newly cut sections of the plant -- seals the wound and keeps it dry.\n\nApply a fungicide, such as myclobutanil or captan according to the directions on the label.\n\nRe-apply the fungicide at two-week intervals until the black rot has been cured. In the meantime, carefully examine the plant and use a sterile knife to remove any additional affected areas. Apply the fungicide paste to the new cuts to help them heal.\n\nThings You Will Need\nSterile knife\n\nFans\n\nCinnamon\n\nCooking oil\n\nFungicide (myclobutanil or captan based)\n\nGarden sprayer"}, "Grape___Esca_(Black_Measles)": {"cite": "Waterworth, Kristi. \"Spraying Lime Sulfur on Grapevines.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/spraying-lime-sulfur-grapevines-27819.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Lime sulfur is a common fungicide applied to grapevines during the growing season. Lime sulfur is approved for organic production systems and is generally believed that the different pathogens it is used against cannot become resistant. Because lime sulfur contains no pesticides, it is safe for use on grapes.\n\nLime Sulfur\nLime sulfur was first mixed by Grison, the head gardener at the vegetable houses of Versailles, France, in 1851. Grison was searching for a solution for fungal infections on his vegetables -- lime sulfur worked so well it became a commonly used mixture referred to as \"Grison Liquid.\" Lime sulfur works by disrupting the transfer of electrons inside the fungus and causing the sulfur in the solution to transform into highly toxic hydrogen sulfide. Sulfur alone can also cause reactions on the plants it is used to protect, lime helps reduce the sulfur's tendency to make plants overly sensitive to the sun.\n\nGrapes Sensitive to Sulfur\nDespite the tempering advantages of lime on sulfur spray, some grapes are highly sensitive to it. On these plants, don't use lime sulfur until absolutely necessary or dilute it before applying. \"Chambourdin,\" \"Chancellor,\" \"Concord,\" \"DeChaunac,\" \"Foch,\" \"Ives\" and \"Rougeon\" are varieties sensitive to lime sulfur spray. Sensitivity has not yet been determined in \"Einset Seedless,\" \"Frontenac,\" \"Frontenac Gris,\" \"La Crescent,\" \"Marquette\" and \"Vanessa.\"\n\nSensitive Pathogens\nLime sulfur is generally effective against foliar fungus problems. Lime sulfur is recommended especially for diseases caused by phomopsis cane and leafspot (Phomopsis viticola), powdery mildew (Erisphe necator) and measles caused by both Togninia spp. and Phaeoacremonium spp. When combined with cultural controls that encourage dry leaf and fruit surfaces, lime sulfur can provide considerable protection against serious loss due to fungus.\n\nWhen to Spray\nLime sulfur is traditionally considered a dormant season spray, but you can also use it during the growing season. In the dormant season, apply it when temperatures are above freezing, but before leaves are present. During the growing season, use a more diluted lime sulfur mix and spray early in the morning or in the cool of late afternoon to avoid injuring the leaves. Do not apply lime sulfur when the weather is dry and temperatures are above 80 degrees Fahrenheit."}, "Grape___Leaf_blight_(Isariopsis_Leaf_Spot)": {"cite": "Leahey, Andrew. \"A Natural Remedy for Problems With Grape Leaves.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/natural-remedy-problems-grape-leaves-43482.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Grapevines can be extremely temperamental plants and can play host to a cavalcade of pests -- insect and otherwise. Finding natural remedies for a problem with grape leaves entails first establishing whether the problem involves an insect, such as aphids, or bacteria and fungus, such as powdery mildew. Once the cause of the issue has been established, you can apply natural remedies rather than chemicals.\n\nAir Circulation\nThe simplest natural remedy for a variety of grapevine leaf issues is to improve the air circulation around your vines. Fungus and bacteria thrive on damp, still parts of your vine where little light penetrates. Keep your vine pruned and eliminate dead or dying branches and tendrils. Clip individual leaves and shoots as necessary to keep leaves and branches from overlapping. Dispose of all removed parts of your vine immediately to prevent further contamination.\n\nPicking Bugs\nIt's not the most enjoyable task, but manually removing pests like slugs and beetles can be an effective way to control their populations. Larger pests can be spotted during the day or in the evening with the help of a flashlight. Check the underside of damaged leaves and keep a bucket of soapy water to dispose of the unwelcome vine visitors.\n\nSoapy Water\nNatural soaps have long been used to eliminate pests on rose bushes and other ornamental plants. Most any home improvement or lawn and garden store will carry insecticidal soap that is labeled as organic or natural. These soaps can be sprayed on the vine and will suffocate many species of potentially damaging insects and may help control fungal or bacterial issues as well.\n\nBacillus Thuringiensis\nBacillus thuringiensis (BT), a bacterium used to control insect populations, is commonly used on organic vegetable gardens. BT works when the bacterium is eaten by insects in the process of feeding on your foliage. The bacterium grows in the digestive tract of the pest and eventually kills it. BT is especially useful in controlling caterpillars that might otherwise chew up your grape leaves.\n\n"}, "Grape___healthy": {"cite": "", "remidy": "it is healthy"}, "Orange___Haunglongbing_(Citrus_greening)": {"cite": "Waterworth, Kristi. \"Cankers on Orange Trees.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/cankers-orange-trees-27818.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "The aphid-sized brown moddled Asian citrus psyllid is considered to have a high potential for significant damage to citrus plantings. Their feeding causes little more than leaf twisting or the death of new shoots, but the canker-causing viruses it vectors are devastating, resulting in its highly aggressive control. Both citrus bacterial canker and huanglongbing (also known as citrus greening), carried by Asian citrus psyllid, are considered to be extremely threatening to commercial orange production. Although these bacteria are not yet widely known in the United States, any sighting of Asian citrus psyllid should be reported to your university extension."}, "Peach___Bacterial_spot": {"cite": "Westover, Jessica. \"Peach Tree Diseases and Prevention.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/peach-tree-diseases-prevention-54827.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Bacterial Spot\nOne of the worst bacterial diseases that attacks peach trees is bacterial spot. Caused by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris pv. pruni, this disease affects the leaves, fruits and twigs. Small, red to purple spots with white centers appear on the backside of the leaves. As the spots develop, their interiors crumble away, creating irregularly shaped holes. Fruit skins appear mottled with brown or black sunken spots. Planting peach varieties specifically bred for resistance against bacterial spot is the best defense from this disease. Maintaining healthy trees through correct cultural practices reduces their susceptibility as well."}, "Peach___healthy": {"cite": "", "remidy": "It is healthy"}, "Pepper,_bell___Bacterial_spot": {"cite": "Waterworth, Kristi. \"Spots on Bell Pepper Plants.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/spots-bell-pepper-plants-55616.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Bacterial Spot\nBacterial spot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesicatoria) is a minor bell pepper disease that causes water-soaked lesions that turn into brown spots no more than 1/4 inch wide to appear on leaf, stem and fruit surfaces. It cannot survive long in the soil, making crop rotation an effective treatment for an infected bed. Copper spray can be used if the infection is severe and widespread, but should not be used otherwise because the bacteria is becoming resistant. Remove infected plant debris immediately to prevent spreading this disease to unaffected plants.\n\n"}, "Pepper,_bell___healthy": {"cite": "", "remidy": "It is healthy"}, "Apple___Cedar_apple_rust": {"cite": "Douglas, Ellen. \"Natural Control for Cedar Apple Rust.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/natural-control-cedar-apple-rust-73910.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "If your apple trees (Malus spp.) develop cedar apple rust, there's not much you can do this season. In future years, however, knowing how to keep the disease from gaining a foothold on new crops may reduce or eliminate the amount of ruined fruit you harvest. As the name suggests, cedar apple rust most often develops on apple trees growing in the vicinity of cedar trees (Juniperus spp).\n\nIdentification and Damage\nCedar apple rust first appears as shiny orange spots on apple tree foliage. Young fruit have raised orange spots, which turn brown as the disease progresses. By the time harvest time approaches, the fruit lesions are larger and cracked. If your cedar trees are infected, you'll notice golf ball-sized brownish growth that develop spikes in the spring.\n\nResistance\nIf you're planting new apple trees or replacing diseased ones, the first step toward natural control is to choose varieties based on relative susceptibility to cedar apple rust. Those that most often suffer from the disease are \"Ambrosia,\" \"Arlet,\" \"Braeburn,\" \"Fuji,\" \"Golden Delicious,\" \"Jonathan,\" \"Rome Beauty,\" \"Winter Banana\" and \"York Imperial.\" Better choices where cedar apple rust is a concern include the highly resistant \"Baldwin,\" \"Delicious,\" \"Enterprise,\" \"Liberty,\" \"McIntosh\" and \"Sundance\" cultivars.\n\nHost Plants\nIt is important to remove any possible host plants growing within 300 yards of your apple trees. Red cedar (Juniperus virginia) is a common host. Additionally, any members of the juniper family are capable of spreading the disease. Other potential culprits that can \"catch\" the disorder and spread it to apple trees include hawthorn trees (Crataegus spp.) and flowering crabapples (Malus spp.).\n\nPreventative Treatment\nSulfur treatment is considered an organically acceptable preventable treatment for cedar rust disease. Apply it three times during the growing season. The most effective periods to spray are when trees form flower buds, 10 days after the first spray and 10 days after the flowers fall from the trees. Coat upper and lower surfaces of the apple tree's foliage. Spray in the early evening to avoid disturbing beneficial pollinating birds and insects. If you have only a few trees, the sulfur is usually diluted at a rate of 3 tablespoons per gallon. Larger numbers of trees call for mixing 5 pounds per 100 gallons.\n\nBoosting General Health\nOrganic gardening author Michael Phillips advises that bolstering the health of apple trees helps them resist diseases like cedar apple rust. He suggests making sprays from garlic (Allium sativum), stinging nettle (Urtica dioica) or horsetail (Equisetum arvense). All are traditional treatments in the garden and orchard to fight off bacterial and fungal diseases, based on their pathogen-fighting isoflavanoid and terpene content. Garlic sprays may be made by blending cloves with water, straining and decanting in a spray bottle or orchard sprayer. Stinging nettle and horsetail involves filling a 5-gallon bucket with either botanical, covering with water and leaving to steep for at least 24 hours. The resulting solution, once strained, can be applied to apple foliage either full strength or diluted with plain water."}, "Potato___Early_blight": {"cite": "King, Melissa. \"How to Rescue Potatoes From Potato Blight.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/rescue-potatoes-potato-blight-29854.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Potato blight, a fungal disease caused by the pathogens Phytophthora infestans and Alternaria solani, results in shriveled, brown leaves and lesions on the plant stems. In its advanced stages, the disease spreads to the tubers. Tubers develop a brownish-red decay that starts growing beneath the skin. The decay soon causes the potatoes to rot. Blight typically develops during times of high humidity and when temperatures are between 55 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Taking precautions can help prevent potato blight, but if your plants are already infected, it is possible to treat the disease and save some of the harvest.\n\nPrevent Potato Blight\n1\nGrow potato varieties that are less susceptible to blight, such as Russet Burbank, Chipeta, Sarpo and Legend.\n\n2\nPlant potatoes in well-draining soil to prevent moisture buildup and rot. Excess moisture causes fungal disease to develop.\n\n3\nProtect potato plants from extended periods of rainfall by covering them with clear polyvinyl sheets. Prop up the sides of the sheets to allow air circulation.\n\n4\nPull weeds that can serve as hosts for blight, such as hairy nightshade. Weeds may also restrict air circulation, creating favorable conditions for blight to develop.\n\n5\nSpray potato plants with a fungicide, such as mefenoxam, cymoxanil or dimethomorph, before blight develops. Cover the foliage and stems of all plants in the garden.\n\n6\nAllow potato plant foliage to dry completely before watering or irrigating. Avoid getting water on the stems and leaves. If leaves remain wet for eight to 10 hours, blight spores on the plant will germinate.\n\nControl Potato Blight\n1\nDispose of inoculum, or sources of blight. Sources include infected tubers, volunteer plants and cull piles. Dispose of the material by burying or burning it.\n\n2\nDisinfect tools that you used to work with infected potatoes. To disinfect, mix 9 parts water with 1 part bleach, then soak the tools in the solution for at least 60 seconds. This prevents spreading the disease.\n\n3\nHarvest potatoes early before blight has a chance to infect the entire plant. Before harvest, cut off the tops of the plants and dispose of them. Wait two to three weeks before harvesting tubers.\n\n4\nApply a fungicide to the leaves and stems of infected plants, and continue the applications every seven to 10 days until harvest. Fungicides work best when applied as early as possible.\n\nThings You Will Need\nClear polyvinyl sheets\nBleach\nFungicide\nTips\nFungicide application amounts vary depending on the chemical used. Read the product label to determine the correct application amount.\nPotato blight can also affect tomatoes.\nWarning\nAvoid overfertilizing potatoes with nitrogen. Excess nitrogen creates favorable conditions for blight development."}, "Potato___Late_blight": {"cite": "King, Melissa. \"How to Rescue Potatoes From Potato Blight.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/rescue-potatoes-potato-blight-29854.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Potato blight, a fungal disease caused by the pathogens Phytophthora infestans and Alternaria solani, results in shriveled, brown leaves and lesions on the plant stems. In its advanced stages, the disease spreads to the tubers. Tubers develop a brownish-red decay that starts growing beneath the skin. The decay soon causes the potatoes to rot. Blight typically develops during times of high humidity and when temperatures are between 55 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Taking precautions can help prevent potato blight, but if your plants are already infected, it is possible to treat the disease and save some of the harvest.\n\nPrevent Potato Blight\n1\nGrow potato varieties that are less susceptible to blight, such as Russet Burbank, Chipeta, Sarpo and Legend.\n\n2\nPlant potatoes in well-draining soil to prevent moisture buildup and rot. Excess moisture causes fungal disease to develop.\n\n3\nProtect potato plants from extended periods of rainfall by covering them with clear polyvinyl sheets. Prop up the sides of the sheets to allow air circulation.\n\n4\nPull weeds that can serve as hosts for blight, such as hairy nightshade. Weeds may also restrict air circulation, creating favorable conditions for blight to develop.\n\n5\nSpray potato plants with a fungicide, such as mefenoxam, cymoxanil or dimethomorph, before blight develops. Cover the foliage and stems of all plants in the garden.\n\n6\nAllow potato plant foliage to dry completely before watering or irrigating. Avoid getting water on the stems and leaves. If leaves remain wet for eight to 10 hours, blight spores on the plant will germinate.\n\nControl Potato Blight\n1\nDispose of inoculum, or sources of blight. Sources include infected tubers, volunteer plants and cull piles. Dispose of the material by burying or burning it.\n\n2\nDisinfect tools that you used to work with infected potatoes. To disinfect, mix 9 parts water with 1 part bleach, then soak the tools in the solution for at least 60 seconds. This prevents spreading the disease.\n\n3\nHarvest potatoes early before blight has a chance to infect the entire plant. Before harvest, cut off the tops of the plants and dispose of them. Wait two to three weeks before harvesting tubers.\n\n4\nApply a fungicide to the leaves and stems of infected plants, and continue the applications every seven to 10 days until harvest. Fungicides work best when applied as early as possible.\n\nThings You Will Need\nClear polyvinyl sheets\nBleach\nFungicide\nTips\nFungicide application amounts vary depending on the chemical used. Read the product label to determine the correct application amount.\nPotato blight can also affect tomatoes.\nWarning\nAvoid overfertilizing potatoes with nitrogen. Excess nitrogen creates favorable conditions for blight development."}, "Potato___healthy": {"cite": "", "remidy": "It is healthy"}, "Raspberry___healthy": {"cite": "", "remidy": "It is healthy"}, "Soybean___healthy": {"cite": "", "remidy": "It is healthy"}, "Squash___Powdery_mildew": {"cite": "Kelsey, Amber. \"How to Make a Fungicide for Powdery Mildew on Organic Cucumbers.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/make-fungicide-powdery-mildew-organic-cucumbers-91478.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) are warm-season annuals that belong to the cucurbit family, making them related to squash and melons. Like other cucurbits, cucumbers are susceptible to a disease called powdery mildew, which coats the leaves, vines and stems with a white to pale-gray, powdery growth. Traditional fungicides effectively treat powdery mildew on cucumbers, but organic gardeners often make a homemade fungicidal solution to guarantee chemical-free treatment.\n\n1\nPour 5 tablespoons of vegetable oil, 2 tablespoons of baking soda and 2 gallons of water in a small, handheld sprayer. Shake the sprayer to thoroughly combine the ingredients.\n\n2\nAdd 1 teaspoon of pure Castile soap to the mixture. Shake your sprayer thoroughly. Occasionally agitate the solution while spraying to keep the oil from separating.\n\n3\nSpray infected cucumber plants with a blast of water from your garden hose. This helps loosen the powdery mildew fungal spores, which could allow the solution to better cover the foliage for optimal disease control.\n\n4\nSpray your cucumber plants with the baking soda, oil and soap solution until you thoroughly cover the foliage, including the tops and undersides of leaves, stems and vines. Use the solution on the surrounding soil and any adjacent cucurbit plants to help keep the disease from spreading.\n\n5\nReapply the organic fungicide every five to seven days until the powdery mildew disease is under control. Help the control process along by picking off affected plant parts and discarding them in a covered trash can.\n\nThings You Will Need\n5 tablespoons vegetable oil\n2 tablespoons baking soda\n2 gallons water\nHandheld sprayer\n1 teaspoon pure Castile soap\nGarden hose\nCovered trash can\nTips\nBaking soda raises pH levels, making the environment uninhabitable for the powdery mildew fungi.\nStart monitoring your cucumber plants once a week when they start sprouting and continue throughout the growing season. Check beneath the leaves, since powdery mildew often initially appears on the shady undersides.\nRemove weeds and rake up all fallen leaves and plant debris in the fall to stop powdery mildew pathogens from overwintering and spreading the following spring. Discard debris in a covered trashcan.\nPlant cucumbers in fully sunny locations. Not only do they prefer ample sunlight, but the heat prevents the fungal spores from germinating.\nPowdery mildew might look unsightly, but infected cucumbers rarely die.\nWarnings\nAvoid planting any type of cucurbits in the same location more often than once every three years. Doing so increases the risk of plant diseases.\nDon't place powdery mildew-infected material in your compost or you risk spreading the disease to other areas of your vegetable garden."}, "Strawberry___Leaf_scorch": {"cite": "Myers, Josie. \"Strawberry Plants: Leaf Symptoms.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/strawberry-plants-leaf-symptoms-62760.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Scorch\nScorch (Iplocarpon earlianais) is the most common strawberry leaf disease in the U.S. The first signs of scorch are dark purple spots on top of leaves. Over time, the spots can meld together and turn the leaf red, purple or brown. As the disease continues, the leaf will eventually turn entirely brown and die.\n\nPrevention and Treatment\nChose high-quality, disease-resistant strawberry plants, and plant them in an area with full sun where air can circulate through the crop. Watch for overcrowding and weed your strawberries regularly. University of Illinois Integrated Pest Management recommends spraying a fungicide after planting, because most fungicides are not effective once the plant has an active infection. Once you see signs of a fungal infection, remove any infected leaves to keep it from spreading to healthy leaves. If the infection is particularly bad, at the end of the season, mow down or rake up the strawberry plants and burn or dispose of the debris."}, "Strawberry___healthy": {"cite": "", "remidy": "It is healthy"}, "Tomato___Bacterial_spot": {"cite": "Lynn, Audrey. \"Natural Remedies for Black Spots on Tomato Plants.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/natural-remedies-black-spots-tomato-plants-26747.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Bacterial speck and spot are similar infections of tomato plants. Bacterial speck causes severe leaf curl and small black lesions with a yellow halo. The spots are 1/4 inch or smaller. Bacterial spot causes milder leaf curling and forms greasy-looking black spots larger than those of bacterial speck. Both infections can spread to flowers, causing early blossom drop and interfering with fruit production.\nBuy only certified disease-free tomato seeds or seedlings. Because the pathogens that cause bacterial spot and bacterial speck can remain in the soil for about a year, rotate tomato plantings with other types of plants each year. Remove severely infected plants and keep the garden free of weeds to eliminate hiding places for the bacteria."}, "Tomato___Early_blight": {"cite": "Miller, Renee. \"Natural Ways to Kill Blight on Tomatoes.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/natural-ways-kill-blight-tomatoes-42558.html. 10 December 2018.", "remidy": "Tomatoes often are included in summer gardens for their juicy, fresh fruits, and with proper care, tomatoes are relatively easy to grow. However, like other garden plants, tomatoes are not immune to diseases such as blight. Chemical treatments can harm pets and humans, but there are a couple of effective natural treatments for tomato blight. These treatments are most effective when combined with cultural controls.\n\nTypes of Blight\nThere are two types of blight that commonly affect garden tomatoes, early blight and late blight. Early tomato blight, caused by the fungus Alternaria solani, can cause a range of symptoms at all stages of plant growth and thrives in warm, humid conditions. Its most common symptoms include damping-off, stem cankers, crown rot, leaf blight, and fruit rot. Late blight is caused by the fungal-like pathogen Phytophthora infestans, which thrives in cool, wet conditions. Signs of infection include leaf lesions that start out as pale or olive green areas and rapidly change to brown-black. The lesions are water-soaked, appear oily and may produce whitish grey, fuzzy spores. The fruit shows few symptoms initially, but soon develops ringed, golden to chocolate brown lesions or spots that may appear sunken.\n\nCompost Tea\nCompost teas can be effective at fighting both early and late tomato blight. Compost tea is made by by mixing about one part well-aged compost that is at least 4 months old and 5 to 8 parts of water. The mixture is placed in a covered container and allowed to steep outside at temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit for about five days. The tea must be stirred daily. On the fifth day, the material is poured through a sieve or cheesecloth and the strained tea applied to plants as a foliar spray. Compost tea should not be sprayed on the fruit if you plan to harvest in the following 2 to 3 weeks.\n\nBaking Soda\nBaking soda has fungicidal properties that can stop or reduce the spread of early and late tomato blight. Baking soda sprays typically contain about 1 teaspoon baking soda dissolved into 1 quart of warm water. Adding a drop of liquid dish soap or 2 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil helps the solution stick to your plant. Pour the mixture into a spray bottle and shake thoroughly before applying to the entire plant. Baking soda fungicides should be applied out of direct sunlight to avoid burning your plant, and do not make it too strong. While baking soda helps fight fungus, too much can damage your plants.\n\nCultural Controls\nWhether you use chemical or natural treatments to control tomato blight, proper cultural controls are also necessary to prevent or limit infection. Never work in your garden during wet conditions, when spores are most likely to be spread. Remove all dead or infected leaves and fruits to prevent the spread of spores to healthy plants. Space your tomato plants so that air can circulate and keep the foliage dry, and water your plants early in the day to encourage rapid drying of the foliage before cooler nighttime temperatures arrive. Control harmful insects in your garden to minimize plant injury and the spread of spores caused by their feeding."}, "Apple___healthy": {"cite": "", "remidy": "It is healthy"}, "Tomato___Late_blight": {"cite": "Green, Jenny. \"Natural Remedies for Tomato Blight & Powdery Mildew.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/natural-remedies-tomato-blight-powdery-mildew-43797.html. 02 December 2018.", "remidy": "Manage Tomato Blight Naturally\nSanitation measures, crop rotation, watering techniques and mulches all help control early and late tomato blight without using chemicals. The first signs of early blight on tomatoes are brown or black spots on the older leaves, and these spots grow larger in rings, so that the resulting lesions look like targets. The lesions turn yellow and the leaves may drop. Early blight affects tomato fruits, causing similar lesions. Late blight also affects the oldest leaves first. Irregular grayish patches appear and, in humid conditions, a fuzzy growth arises on the undersides of the infected leaves. The signs of late blight on tomato fruit include dark, sunken, rough lesions on green fruit.\n\nTo help control early and late tomato blights and prevent the diseases from returning the following year:\n\nGrow tomatoes in full sun, spacing the plants at least 3 feet apart to allow good air circulation. \nStake tomatoes or grow them in cages to lift the leaves off the ground.\nWater tomato plants in the morning, applying the water at the bases of the plants to avoid wetting the leaves.\nAt the end of the growing season, remove and dispose of the tomato plant and fruit debris or till the materials under the soil surface.\nRemove weeds from your veggie patch to prevent tomato blight spores from overwintering on them.\nRotate your tomato plant crop to a new site every year, at least three years in a row. Also avoid growing tomatoes where you grew peppers (Capsicum annuum Hot Pepper Group), potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) or eggplants (Solanum melongena) the previous year. Peppers, potatoes and eggplants are in the same family as tomatoes and suffer from similar diseases. Peppers are hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11, and potatoes and eggplants are annual plants."}, "Tomato___Leaf_Mold": {"cite": "Douglas, Ellen. \"Remedies for a Tomato Plant With Gray Mold.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/remedies-tomato-plant-gray-mold-92020.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Botrytis cinerea, the disease known as gray mold, strikes a range of perennials and annuals as a distinctively velvety, gray growth. On tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum), the disease starts on stems and leaves, eventually rotting the tomatoes themselves while they are at the green stage. Because there is no real cure for gray mold, remedies are aimed at preventing the disease in the first place, or halting its progress.\n\nSelective Planting\nOne remedy for ongoing gray mold infestations is to segregate tomato seedlings that show obvious signs of already having the disease from healthy tomato seedlings. Afflicted seedlings will have dead leaves or wounds on the stems. Destroy these plants rather than setting them in the ground. Additionally, where you plant can be as crucial as what you plant. Because fungal spores overwinter in the soil, it's best to grow tomatoes in a new spot from year to year so that the previous years' infection doesn't spread as rapidly.\n\nAggressive Pruning\nAccording to Rodale's \"Ultimate Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening,\" pruning your tomato plant is an especially effective remedy when gray mold is the disease plaguing it. That's because gray mold settles into dying or dead plant tissue first. Catching the disease at this stage may help you rid your tomato plant of gray mold altogether. Use clean pruning shears to cut away stems or foliage that have gray mold on them. After pruning, disinfect the shears by wiping the blades with hydrogen peroxide or chlorine bleach.\n\nSlowing Spread\nTo lower the risk of your tomato getting grey mold, follow the garden practices that keep fungal spores from spreading. Wet leaves are most susceptible to gray mold and other plant disease. Water the soil around tomato plants, rather than their foliage, by using drip irrigation -- or simply by aiming your garden hose at the soil rather than the plants. Spacing tomatoes so that their foliage doesn't touch also helps lessen fungal spread. Finally, pick up any infected plant parts that have fallen to the ground, and remove them promptly.\n\nChemical Treatment\nIf gray mold is a known problem in your region, preventative applications of a fungicide may help. Clemson University's Cooperative Extension program recommends applying a product that contains chlorothalonil. Follow package directions before applying the spray. For example, a typical product calls for mixing 6 teaspoons of the fungicidal concentrate with one gallon of water, assuming a tomato patch that is about 200 square feet. Spray the plants thoroughly, focusing on the stems and leaves. You can repeat the applications about once a week, with a total of no more than seven applications."}, "Tomato___Septoria_leaf_spot": {"cite": "Zinski, Jaimie. \"How to Stop Septoria on Tomato Plants.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/stop-septoria-tomato-plants-51030.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "During periods of high humidity and temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, an opportunistic fungal infection can wreak havoc on your tomato plants. Caused by the fungus Septoria lycopersici, septoria leaf spot is characterized by circular spots that range in diameter from 1/16 to 1/4 inch and appear either tan, dark brown or gray. The fungus is spread through infected plants and equipment and, if left untreated, will pass quickly and affect a whole crop, no matter what the plant\u2019s age. Prevention, proper sanitation measures and the use of copper-based fungicides are the best ways to stop septoria from spreading.\n\n1\nInspect the tomato seedling before planting. While at the home improvement store or nursery, look for the early signs of septoria leaf spot, including the tan, brown or gray rings. Only introduce plants that appear healthy and disease-free.\n\n2\nChoose a planting site featuring well-drained soil and plenty of exposure to light winds and the sun. Septoria spreads more quickly on moist leaves, so choose an area that allows the plants to remain as dry as possible.\n\n3\nSpread a thin layer of mulch around the growing tomato seedlings. The mulch acts as a protective shield that doesn\u2019t allow septoria spores to splash onto the tomato stems or leaves during irrigation.\n\n4\nIrrigate the plants early in the day and, if possible, avoid using an overhead watering system. Watering near the base of the plant helps keep the foliage relatively free of excess moisture, which the septoria requires to thrive.\n\n5\nMonitor your growing tomato plants and pluck off any diseased leaves immediately after you notice the infection. The infection generally starts on the lower leaves and moves up. Toss or burn the infected leaves. Never mulch or compost them, as this will only spread the septoria fungus.\n\n6\nTreat the tomato plants with a copper-based fungicide at the first sign of the septoria infection, or right after the formation of fruit clusters. Apply the product to both sides of the tomato leaves and the center stock. To help control the spread of septoria to the plant\u2019s other leaves, reapply the fungicide every seven to 14 days.\n\nThings You Will Need\nMulch\nShears\nCopper-based fungicide"}, "Tomato___Spider_mites Two-spotted_spider_mite": {"cite": "Lee, Victoria. \"Marigolds, Tomatoes & Spider Mites.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/marigolds-tomatoes-spider-mites-51810.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Spider Mites\nSpider mites are tiny arachnids that find easy transport on air currents, which move them from marigolds to tomato plants. Although they are visible with the unaided eye, they are difficult to see without close scrutiny. Often, their presence is first made known by delicate webbing that they spin as defense mechanisms. Spider mites eat sap by piercing plant tissue and siphoning cells. They commonly form colonies, with many spider mites clustered on undersides of leaves.\n\nDamage\nAs a spider mite feeds on plant cell sap, the mesophyll tissue collapses. This leaves a tiny, chlorotic dot at each point where the mite\u2019s hypodermic-like mouthpiece pierces plant tissue. As the mite moves across a leaf\u2019s surface, yellow stippling follows. Large mite populations can cause entire leaves to turn yellow and infestations lead to leaf drop. If enough leaves fall, plants are incapable of photosynthetic activity and they die from the inability to produce food to sustain themselves.\n\nControl\nBecause spider mites reproduce so rapidly, early identification is critical to effectively treating them. All yellowing leaves are not symptomatic of spider mite damage, but the presence of delicate webbing on plants with yellow leaves usually confirms their presence. Although insecticides will kill these pests, they also eliminate predators that manage their populations naturally. For this reason, the University of Massachusetts Extension cautions that using broad-spectrum insecticides often exacerbates the problem and causes outbreaks of spider mites. Instead, you can dislodge them with jets of water from your garden hose or use horticultural soap to spray on plants to kill them. An organic control is rosemary oil, which deters spider mites but does not injure plants or beneficial predators."}, "Tomato___Target_Spot": {"cite": "Schumer, KW. \"Cures for Tomato Plant Fungus.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/cures-tomato-plant-fungus-39868.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Despite tomato plants' popularity, they can be tricky to grow. The finicky plants are susceptible to fungi that can cause damage from shriveled foliage to rotted fruit. The most common tomato fungi include early blight, late blight, anthracnose and septoria leaf spot. Fortunately, tomato fungi are also easy to identify and the cures and preventative measures are similar.\n\nIdentifying the Fungus\nEarly blight is one of the most damaging tomato fungi. Check for dark, irregular, target-like spots on leaves that soon wither and drop. Late blight strikes during stretches of rainy, cool weather. On leaves, look for dark spots that spread quickly; on fruit, dark, irregular blotches cause tomatoes to rot and smell foul. Anthracnose attacks tomatoes as they start to ripen. Small, indented spots with dark centers produce spores and cause fruit to rot. Septoria leaf spots appear as water-soaked circular spots that develop gray centers and can cause leaf die-off. Septoria can happen throughout the growing season, but generally appears when plants start to set fruit.\n\nPlant Selection and Planting\nTomato fungi can be tough to eradicate once plants are infected, so prevention is the best course. Choose cultivars that are disease-resistant -- look for letter codes next to plant names, suggests Ohio State University. Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart and rows four to five feet apart to increase air flow and reduce plant-to-plant spread of fungus. Remove infected plants as soon as fungus appears, clearing out plant debris each fall, and rotating garden crops yearly to reduce reinfestation.\n\nStaking, Mulching, Watering\nTomato fungi live in soil and reproduce by infecting live plants. Staking tomato plants keeps foliage off contaminated soil, and mulching reduces \u201csoil splash\u201d during watering. Place 6-foot stakes four inches from the plant to allow for stem growth. Tomato fungi thrive in a wet environment, so avoid overhead watering such as with sprinklers. Instead, water the base of plants to avoid wetting leaves, and in the morning to allow plants time to dry in the sun.\n\nFungicides\nMost chemical fungicides are sprayed or dusted onto plant surfaces to protect against infection; they don\u2019t kill fungus already infecting a plant. Apply fungicides as soon as plants are in the ground and reapply weekly during the growing season and after a rain. Fungicides such as chlorothalonil, maneb and mancozeb are effective against blights and leaf spots. Always apply fungicides according to the directions on the label."}, "Tomato___Tomato_Yellow_Leaf_Curl_Virus": {"cite": "Fischer, Fern. \"Remedies for Leaf Curl in Tomato Plants.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/remedies-leaf-curl-tomato-plants-39900.html. 09 December 2018.", "remidy": "Tomato yellow leaf curl disease is caused by the pathogen, tomato yellow leaf curl virus (TYLCV). Its appearance in California was first identified in 2007 by the University of California Integrated Pest Management Program. An aggressive education program curbed the spread of the disease, but it has not been completely eradicated. Diseased plants are stunted, with small leaves with edges that curl upward. Blossoms drop and the plants don\u2019t fruit. Whiteflies spread TYLCV, and biological controls such as bigeyed bugs, lacewing larvae and lady beetle larvae are recommended to control whiteflies. Row covers also keep whiteflies off the plants. Growing tomatoes away from other whitefly host crops, such as brassicas and peppers, and cleaning up weeds and garden debris also help control the disease. Report suspected cases of tomato yellow leaf curl to your county extension office.\n\nWeather Stress\nTomatoes are sensitive to climate conditions. Cool, rainy weather can cause the lower leaves to thicken and roll. This stress response doesn\u2019t interfere with fruit production or cause permanent damage to the plant, and new foliage that grows in warmer weather will not be affected. No treatment is necessary.\n\nNon-Parasitic Leaf Roll\nNon-parasitic leaf roll is another climatic problem. Irregular irrigation and improper pruning cause the leaf edges to roll inward, sometimes to the point of overlapping. When most of the leaves on the plant are affected by this condition it may look serious, but it is not permanent. The remedy is deep, even watering on a regular basis and careful pruning.\n\nHerbicides\nEven if you don\u2019t use herbicides in your garden, overspray and wind-blown droplets may find their way to your tomato plants. Leaf curl is one sign of herbicide damage. Depending on the herbicide, leaves may tilt down with curled edges to form cupped leaves, or the leaves may pucker and curl. Avoid using herbicides in general and never use herbicide-treated lawn clippings as mulch. Watering affected tomato plants regularly may help them recover if the herbicide damage is mild."}, "Tomato___Tomato_mosaic_virus": {"cite": "Douglas, Ellen. \"Homemade Tomato Disease Remedies.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/homemade-tomato-disease-remedies-30831.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Aluminum Foil\nAphids transmit diseases to tomatoes, such as alfalfa mosaic disease, which kills the entire plant. One common control for aphids is to lay down silver fabric, also known as reflective mulch, because the reflection disorients the insects. For home gardens, sheets of aluminum foil around tomato plants may create the same effect."}, "Tomato___healthy": {"cite": "", "remidy": "It is healthy"}, "Blueberry___healthy": {"cite": "", "remidy": "It is healthy"}, "Cherry_(including_sour)___Powdery_mildew": {"cite": "McLaughlin, Randy. \"Use of Pesticides on Cherries.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-pesticides-cherries-70264.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Dormant Sprays\n Cherry growers sometimes use pesticides to ensure that they have a marketable crop.\nDormant sprays are the most important pesticide applications for cherry trees. These sprays help reduce the number of overwintering insects and pathogens that can damage the trees and reduce yield during the upcoming season. Early dormant sprays are applied in the fall when all of the leaves are gone. Lime-sulfur and dormant oils are applied for control of powdery mildew and overwintering insects. If bacterial canker (gummosis) is a problem, fixed copper sprays are applied. Chlorothalonil fungicide is sometimes used when Coryneum blight (shot-hole) is a problem, but copper sprays are also effective.\n\nDelayed dormant sprays are applied when the buds begin to show green tissue. Horticultural oils are applied alone or with lime-sulfur for the control of insects and powdery mildew. When applying these dormant oils, it is important to make sure that the trees are thoroughly covered because the oils work by suffocating the attached insects.\n\nPesticide Sprays Applied at Petal Fall or Shuck Stage\n Sulfur is an important inorganic pesticide.\nPesticide applications at petal fall can help prevent problems with insects, mites, shot hole disease and powdery mildew. Insecticidal soaps are soft pesticides for controlling mites and aphids. Biological pesticides made with Bacillus thuringenesis (for caterpillars) and Beauveria (mites and aphids) are also available.\n\nMalathion is an organophosphate pesticide that can also be used for aphid control. Powdery mildew control requires a lime-sulfur spray and shot hole disease can be controlled by a wettable sulfur."}, "Cherry_(including_sour)___healthy": {"cite": "", "remidy": "It is healthy"}, "Corn_(maize)___Cercospora_leaf_spot Gray_leaf_spot": {"cite": "", "remidy": "Sorry! no data available"}, "Corn_(maize)___Common_rust": {"cite": "Flanigan, Amanda. \"Early Rust Symptoms in Corn.\" Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/early-rust-symptoms-corn-32297.html. Accessed 04 January 2019.", "remidy": "Treatment\nOnce rust has developed, controlling it is rather difficult but not impossible. Your first step is to prune the infected or damaged plant matter off the corn with a pair of pruning shears and dispose of it in a garbage bag. According to the University of California, fungicide is generally not recommended unless the rust threatens the life of your corn crop. If you do choose to use fungicide, ensure that it is safe for corn use. Each type of fungicide has directions that you must follow to ensure the safety of the corn. For example, certain copper fungicides require diluting the chemical with water at a ratio of 0.5 to 2.0 fluid ounces to every gallon of water. Spray the diluted fungicide liberally over the entire plant on a cool, calm day and repeat the treatment seven to 10 days later. Alternatively, try a less-harsh option by dissolving two 325-milligram uncoated aspirin tablets in 1 quart of water. Pour the solution in a garden sprayer and coat the infected crop to treat rust, powdery mildew and black spot.\n\nPrevention\nLike most fungal diseases, rust generally becomes problematic in mild temperatures -- between 60 and 73 degrees Fahrenheit -- when the humidity is high and the area is damp. The best defense against rust is to prevent its development by using drip irrigation instead of overhead sprinklers. Rust can also become problematic when air cannot properly circulate through the plants, which typically occurs when the corn is planted too closely together. To allow for proper airflow, always plant the seeds following the recommended spacing, which will depend on the cultivar of corn. For example, sweet corn is generally spaced about 2 to 4 inches apart. Whether you are planting a large crop in a field or a few small rows in your backyard vegetable garden, the spacing of the plant is the same."}, "Corn_(maize)___Northern_Leaf_Blight": {"cite": "", "remidy": "Sorry! no data available"}}